Minis should be used in oil testing, they are fantastic at sorting out the good oil from the crap.

A mini box will turn a crappy oil into a bitumastic sludge in a couple of weeks.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

On my 'S'-treme supercharged Bigblock I use 20W-50, always have brand hasn't made a difference, same with the un-treme bigblock, 20W-50 of whatevers on special.

_________________
1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

yeah i would only use kmart oil for running in.
i was previously using penrite, so castrol edge sport is about the same price.

I see no point in running anyhting other than oil that meets the original standard. All the other additives and detergants do bugga all in an engine as old in design as an A - series.

K-Mart is fine by me as long as it replaced at the recommended intervals.

Otheriwse your just wastin you money.

How hard was the driving? Highways will work the oil pretty hard, maybe it's clearing out the cobwebs??
Try a new oil, maybe Penrite HPR 30 or Castrol Edge, whatever you like.
See what happens after a couple of cycles of oil changes, you might find that it's just fine.

If it isn't burning it, and it isn't leaking, oil pressure is fine and everything seems nice, then there is no reason at this stage to get nervous over the engine.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

thats true with an engine that is original and standard and i would recommend using a normal oil for a normal mini engine.

if its making a lot of Horsepower over standard, i would use a higher performance oil.

My VP3 cam wore out using Penrite HPR30 and an oil cooler too, go figure..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I took my mini for a service and the mechanic recommend penrite 30. It works a treat.

_________________
Morgs

You payed to much

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Wouldnt make any difference. Oils loose there slipperyness when the long chain molecules break down. This is caused by heat. Any oil of a given standard will behave the same as any other oil of a given standard. The difference is additives. If the additives are irrelevant - then there is very little difference.

If you are producing more power - you are producing more heat - which is breaking down the oil. The problem is heat not oil. Cool an engine for its output and oil aint an issue.

[puts microphone to arse] i know what you're saying Bloke, but the peak heat will be caused where the heat is created,like in the tiny gap between frictional surfaces like bearings, rings/cylinder and between the gear teeth. this is where the heat will be the highest and where the damage to the oil will theoretically occur. you throw the oil back into the sump and hope that the rest of the sump cools it down enough so that the next time it happens it doesn't tip it over the edge and turn it into ash.
so what I am saying is that at these points the cooling may not have any effect on the instantaneous heat created... [/removes microphone from arse]

I'm talking out my arse I know, but is any of it good logic? Would you put any of that on an exam paper for part marks perhaps?

I love these oil questions, it always gets Ausmini going.......no one gets excited over brake fluid and grease however.....

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Your arse is correct. However the oil is cooled not only by joining isnt oily brothers in the sump but the radiation of the heat through the metal surfaces. This radiates through the water channels etc. So having a high capacity cooling system will absorb more of the radiant heat therefore moving more heat from the metal masses and the oil.

So increasing thermal transfer through a radiator of increased capacity, a larger water pump and an oil cooler is more appropriate than buying a fancy oil.

Another of way improving thermal transfer is to not use an insulating paint like epoxy on your engine. So by making your engine look pretty and having the "right" label on your oil and doing nothing else you are actually detracting from your engines abilities.

I use real grease and real brake fluid not that fake stuff.

_________________
1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

this is why i have a 2 core rad, oil cooler and i don't paint the gearbox casing with its cooling fins.

i've put everything i have into my engine and im not going to chance that because i decided to be cheap on oil.
on a standard mini engine i usually used penrite 20-50 or valvoline 20-50

here are some good links
http://www.penritedata.com/au/db/vehicl ... x=190&y=14
http://www.penrite.com.au/files/2TI3VYP ... 20OILS.pdf
http://www.castroledge.com.au/
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/bp_au/default.asp
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/mobil_au/
http://www.shell.com/home/PlainPageServ ... match.html
http://www.pennzoil.com.au/lubematch/pz_lubematch.asp
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/caltx_a ... ?section=1
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/fuchs_au/
http://www.valvoline.com.au/lube_frame.cfm