Would some very kind person post a thread in the 'How To' section of this forum about bleeding the drum brakes. Tell us the correct way to do it and point out any 'wrongs'

Is it possible to bleed only the front brakes???

Cheers

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

There is a right way and definately a wrong way - if no- one as detailed this before morning the I will write a treatise.

Will you be around Sunday morn Rod? I'll come round and point you in the right direction and give you a hand if you like.

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Cheers,
Rod.
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'63 Morris 850 (Old Secondhand CAR)

Thanks for the replies guys.

Symptoms are that when I press the brake pedal, it goes almost to the floor but is solid. Let the pedal up then push again and it only goes down a very small way and again is solid. I adjusted the brakes only 2 or 3 weeks ago, so assume that there's air in the system. Air would have got in about 6 months or so back when I was replacing the front wheel bearings and had the brakes off. Bled the brakes when I put the wheels etc back on but I suppose I didn't get it all out because I've had this problem ever since then - I've adjusted the brakes 3 or 4 times now in 6 months

This is why I'm saying is there a right and wrong way to do this job.

Rod, I'd love to get a few pointers from you on Sunday morning - I'll make sure there's a cup of Jan's coffee here for you

Hooroo

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

If what you just said was actually true in that the peddle is solid,,, then it`s adjustment that is the problem

if the peddle is soft & spongey then there is air in the system & needs bleeding

To bleed front brakes, you will need to "UN_ADJUST" them first,,, then bleed them,,, & then "ADJUST" them back up

to un-adjust you will need to turn the adjusters opposit to the rotation of the wheels, then when udjusting them up after bleeding, you will need to turn the adjusters in the forward direction of the rotation of the wheels

to paint you all a picture to make it all make more sense-->

imagine laying under the car & turn your head so you`re looking at the backplate of the Left front wheel (passengers side) to adjust them up-->. turn both the adjusters clockwises

now looking at the right hand back plate,,, turn the adjusters anticlockwise

that is to udjust "UP" the front wheels
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& obviously reverse that proceedure to "UN-Adjust"

& i`ll say it again,,, you will need to UN_ADJUST them BEFORE you bleed, Then Adjust them back up

If you have adjusted them the wrong way , then they will un-adjust themselves very very quickly & you will have a very low peddle again in no time at all

If it`s a low peddle but a solid peddle, then it`s adjustment

if it`s spongey peddle then it`s air & needs a bleed

if it`s a low & spongey peddle , then obviously you need to unadjust, then bleed, then re-adjust up

any questions????

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Cya in the morning Rod. I can taste that coffee already....

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Cheers,
Rod.
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'63 Morris 850 (Old Secondhand CAR)

hey Miniman in Brisvegas..............that makes sense. Like I said, I have a solid pedal but it just goes down way too far. Adjust them and it's fine for a while.

I'll attack 'em in the morning - with Rod's help plus a cup of fresh brewed coffee

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

Amazing what some-one else sees and you miss it on your own car - the top ball joint on one side and the bottom one on the other side are worn. This will be causing excess movement/vibrations in the wheels when driving along and most likely be causing the brakes to 'un-adjust' themselves.

Anyway, I'll replace all 4 and see what happens. About time the brake fluid was replaced too - it's about 18 months to 2 years old so it needs doing.

Hooroo

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

Hmmm - have a look at the ball joints before running out and spending money. They have shims and provided the actual ball and taper is not damaged you can take out the worn shims and tighten the cups until the whole thing is very tight with fingers.

Do not grease it until after you have got the "feel" of the ball joints right. Be also aware that the bottom ball joints have a spring and the top dont.

Also take my advice, and go out and buy a thirty dollar scissor type ball joint splitter - no other type is good enough and it saves all sorts of problems. The only down side to it that the Australian vernacular "french" doesn't get as practised.

I do think that you are only taking the brake adjustment that locks the brakes - there are several more highs and flats - have the brakes well and truely locked and then back it off a turn or two to free the wheel. As Matt (theminiman) said for all other bits.

Hi Mike,

Hear what you say about the shims - guess I'll find out when I take them apart.

About the scisor type ball joint splitter, I've got one but it needs replacing so that's job number one before even thinking about shims and new ball joints.

I've adjusted up the brakes again so we'll just 'wait and see'

Hooroo

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

Hey Rod, if you like I'll pop round with the EzeeBleed ? I've done a fair bit of work on brakes over the years.

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head