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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 7:45 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 3:22 pm
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Location: narrogin w.a
She's all over, whole car sand blasted today exept roof,no problems whatsoever,just turn pressure down along with a good operater! primed it with industrial 2pac primer that has anti rust agent in it,very tough stuff. The car was in bare metal 3 hours max, no need for etch with this stuff!!!!! Couldn't be bothered with wire wheels ,,stripper e.t.c


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 8:16 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 3:36 pm
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Location: melbourne
so you did the interior and underbody too? how much was it?

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 8:55 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 10:45 am
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Location: Canberra
If you go with the WD40 route (which I did) you will first have to use some form of silicone remover before applying any form of primer etc.

It is another cost and the automotive paint industry silicone remover is some nasty stuff of which you will need to have a very good respirator mask to ensure you don't breath in any of the fumes.

And you do need to make a very good job of removing the silicates as it will stuff up your paint job. I also went to the extra effort of using an abrasive wheel again after all the cleaning just to make sure.

It is your choice. WD40 allowed me to have bare panels for 6 months without any rust appearing.

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 9:24 am 
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848cc
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Location: narrogin w.a
Yep done everthing exept roof ..... ,Inside ,under,door edges need new skins anyway, 2 places to be very carefull is bonnet and around heater vents on dash,,very thin there..Total cost was $300 and $90 for 4 litres of 2pac+Dad had a small stationary engine done as well. Very satisfied cause now i know what was under all that paint,If you get it done on fragile parts get him to turn pressure right down as well as sand flow, and get him to hold nozzle about 1 metre away!!!


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 9:44 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 3:36 pm
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Location: melbourne
any issues getting the sand out of hard to get places? i would actully like to get the van sand blasted but havnt found anybody yet that i trust enough, i've heard of cars becoming a write off due to bad blasters. i had my 850 door frames blasted, and they sat in bare metal for about a month, the only places they started to get surface rust was where hands (with natural oils and sweat) had touched them.
does leave a nice surface for primers to grab onto though.
bead blasting is another alternative, not as harsh as sand, but doesnt take stuff like bog away

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 10:19 am 
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848cc
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Location: narrogin w.a
Yeh, ya need a blaster who knows what there doing,A van may be a bit different cuse of those big flat panels,Even if you get him just to touch the surface with light pressure at a distance just to take the top layer of paint of so it would make it easier to paint stripper those big flat panels,do not do the roof..A nd no sand everywhere when his done he turns compressor right up and blows it all down for you which is alright cause they have water trap in air line no moisture!


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 10:23 am 
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848cc
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Location: narrogin w.a
Its a bit like welding dont consentrate on one area to long,do a bit here and a bit thereto help keep the heat to a minimum!!!


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 10:37 am 
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1360cc
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:59 pm
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cool - glad you got a solution.

I never had a good result with sandblasting - glad it worked out well for you.


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 10:47 am 
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1275cc
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i think bead blasting seems to be the go.

sounds like its a bit late, but i have had my 1275LS sitting outside in bare metal noe for about 3 years. just the occasional spray of WD40 to keep her fresh and shes still gleaming. I know ill have my work cut out to get it all completely off, but im okay with that!

congrats on your results mate!


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 11:25 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2007 9:25 pm
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Location: wooToomba
I used to work in a company which had a huge sandblasting room (20mx10mx6m?). There were a few guys who stripped and painted their cars at work. The results were mostly pretty good, except for one guy, who stood square on when he blasted his doors - damaged them badly. All the guys there seemed to think the main key was to work at the panels from an angle, never square on. I'd imagine that'd be even more important on something with thinner sheet metal.


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