So yeah you get away with not doing it on starters as the brushes are copper of some sort.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

good idea to replace the starter solinod as well, just a few dollars more and you know both aare brand new.

or you could give me the Sports 850 and you won;t have to worry about it again

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Can you still get floor starters new though , I thought there were only poor copies available now .

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You get a variety of brush densities from hard to soft, you can choose them off of manufacturer data sheets for your application. Like brake pads I suppose, it's up to you what you want to wear down first.
They're no copper totally, it's a mix of materials like they do for brake pads to aid longevity. Bottom line is they're supposed to wear down faster than the commutator, or they wouldn't be much of a wear part.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

As we've all probably got a box of 3-4 old starters in our sheds, maybe one of the auto elec/knowledgable starter motor rebuilders could do a HOW-TO on reconditioning them so we can at least rest in the knowledge they're in good condition when we need them?

I'd also like to make sure my date correct starter is usable and have peace in the knowledge its done properly and not just given a coat of paint at the local Auto-elec's and charged a rebuild price.

To be fair to the auto leccies - most generators, alternators and starters that arrive at their premises are stuffed. Its true that reco'ing them is a fairly lucrative enterprise and is usually done when there is a quite time but its no harder or more costly to reco them properly than it is to do a shonky job.

No one enjoys a job that comes back and bites you on the bum. So its usually done properly.