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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2004 4:15 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Oz,
re the copper brake lines- people do it because it is easy. But they have one failing- although strong enough, they harden with age and vibration, then they can crack. :cry:
SS is overkill- just take the old copper ones to Better Brakes or similar, they will make new ones cheap from proper `Burndy' tube. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Eligible?
PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2004 6:37 pm 
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1360cc
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ozmotorsport wrote:
Hiw abut you just post me the patronix and I'll put it in while I'm doing this work. What do I owe ya for it?


Oz have you checked whether they are eligible for Nc? I think CDI and points are OK but not sure about Petronix.....just a thought.... :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2004 6:50 pm 
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Mick, I don't think he is running Nc.. car is a 1978? & it's a 1380 anyhow. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2004 7:13 pm 
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998cc
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Yeah, I'm running the car in under 2 Ltr improved production. I've never seen Scrutineering remove a dizzy cap yet, especially when you are just running around at the rear LOL


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2004 9:52 pm 
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the King of Bling
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Sorry I wish to know

Nc
CDI

And Oz I was just think about the other that may not have been to Flagstaff....But I must admit we may lose a few throught town an out :?

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2004 9:59 pm 
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Nb, Nc = Group N, classes b & c.. where Appendix J? Minis race! All the ones that look just like a Cooper S, but most aren't really. :lol:

CDI = Capacitor Discharge Ignition. One type of electronic ignition (my outboard uses it)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Acronyms!!
PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2004 10:26 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Nb, Nc = Group N, classes b & c.. where Appendix J? Minis race! All the ones that look just like a Cooper S, but most aren't really. :lol:

CDI = Capacitor Discharge Ignition. One type of electronic ignition (my outboard uses it)


Sorry Gaf.....

The thing about CDI is it was a "period modification" (that is you could get em in the 1960's!) so they allowed for Historics but some of the newer methods may not be........

Production Touring Cars
Na = cars built before 1958
Nb = 1958-1964
Nc = 1965 - 1972

Production Sports Cars
Sa = cars built before 1961
Sb = 1961 - 1969
Sc = 1970 - 1977

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2004 10:26 pm 
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Cheers Mate :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 7:48 pm 
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998cc
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Well all was going OK until 5PM today. Turned up at Garrys for my one hour every evening work time on the car. Ready to put the head back on (had the right gasket this time). Slipped the head on, put in push rods, put on rockers tightened them all down "SNAP" snaped a head bolt. (The extra cooper S one at the water pump end) Pulled head off again removed snaped end from hole, searched around for a replacement, got it, put head back on Put rockers back on. THen we find for some reason the arm that has the liitle foot on the end that pushes down the valve is actually hitting the valve spring way before the foot starts pushing the valve down. It must have been doing it before you can see evidence of it. Pull rail off again, remove all rockers and attack each one with the angle grinder (only had phone camera so pix tomorrow) put it all back together, put rail back on tension it all down, set gaps, ALL done - EASY BLOODY PEASY my ass.

I'M STILL LOOKINGFOR SOMEONE TO COME AND HELP ME GET THE ENGINE BACK IN THIS SATURDAY MORNING.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 7:53 pm 
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OZ those rockers are offset bushed, they MUST be pushed back towards the carb before bolting down!

Shoulda told you- hope you haven't stuffed them now... :cry:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 8:05 pm 
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ozmotorsport wrote:
THen we find for some reason the arm that has the liitle foot on the end that pushes down the valve is actually hitting the valve spring way before the foot starts pushing the valve down. It must have been doing it before you can see evidence of it. Pull rail off again, remove all rockers and attack each one with the angle grinder.


What part did you use an angle grinder on!???! I don't understand any of this. Did you back off all the rocker screws before putting the rocker assembly on? :shock:

I would like to help put the motor in but my left shoulder is totally buggered so am handicapped at the moment.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 8:12 pm 
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Chris,
These S forged rockers were offset bushed by me when I had 'em, to increase their ratio to 1.4? a la Vizard. This means the rocker shaft needs to be further back. I used Vizard's method of enlarging the holes in the standard rocker posts, then you just push the whole assembly back towards the pushrods when bolting down.
If you don't do this, the under side of the arm will hit on the valve spring retainer, or the spring.
I just hope he hasn't weakened them too much with the grinder... :cry:

I phoned him so he knows what to check. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 8:23 pm 
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998cc
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She'll be right, just scolloped a bit out from under the arm that's all.


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 Post subject: Race Prep!!
PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 8:31 pm 
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ozmotorsport wrote:
She'll be right, just scolloped a bit out from under the arm that's all.


Lightening the rocker gear already Oz, whats next, drilling holes in out of the way places!! :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 8:37 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Oz,
re the copper brake lines- people do it because it is easy. But they have one failing- although strong enough, they harden with age and vibration, then they can crack. :cry:
SS is overkill- just take the old copper ones to Better Brakes or similar, they will make new ones cheap from proper `Burndy' tube. :wink:


Yeah, and the other thing id the scrutineers will knock you back on copper brake lines. You may get away with it once, but if the car comes back without it being fixed - out the door :( . Of course this all depends if the scrutineer know what they are doing :roll:

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