your just used to it now and now you are craving more power.
lol

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www.minicranks.com add me to your watch list and come back again soon, under construction.

nup definately not imagining it, when it was going good it was plenty, ask william!

there is something wrong, its off to the dyno tomoz at Mini Classic for grieg and Graham to have a lookeee at

That says it all right there. I 100% agree. UNless of course something is wrong with your car, but anyways....

When I drive the standard 1275 mini, after my supercharged one, it seems like "crap, where'd all the power go...bugger, somethings wrong!" , nope it ain't, nothing wrong.

I shouldve have started with a 998. I had rthe 1100S engine, and thought it was great, but got a little boring.

Got my Cooper S motor on the road, thought it was great. Got it supercharged, when it's all going good, it's awesome, but soon I'll be going down another route, and I'll probably like that even more.

Bugger, shoudda started with a 998, I'd be onto "big" 1100s by now.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

ive been drvign enough different Minis now for the past 6 years to know that
some motors have more power than others, I also know when somethings not right.....
which is now.. Im tipping the timing.

Well you DID put a dizzy with points in it...
Check the gap. As they bed in they often close up a bit, this retards the timing and you lose DA POWER.
The cure??? um... get thee to thy Nissan wrecker... or put a Pertronix in it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

points gap was the first think i did check! and it was spot on.... Im not going down
the nissan route!

Timing light will fix it, IF you know what the max timing was on Graham's dyno when you ran it up- many people forget to ask him.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

we shall hopefully have a fix tomoz. ill let you all know

just twist the dizzy back and forth till she goes hard, then tighten the bracket back up..

And when it "blows up" because you over advanced it???

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Miniworx Centre 0883741299
Sooperdooperminicooperexpertengineering
Online BMW Mini Shop

Yeah and after doing it that way you have NFI where it is set, for next time you have the prob.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Not only that but now the person that gives advice is LIABLE for any engine destruction if someone follows their advice... just be careful of advice given.

_________________
Miniworx Centre 0883741299
Sooperdooperminicooperexpertengineering
Online BMW Mini Shop

Latest news is that it seems to be a poorly seating exhaust valve...

it would stop going hard before you advanced it that much i think.
i find small adjustments to be the trick.

i lost an exhaust valve in my bigblock, and i could feel the cyl drop as i was just cruising along at 80 or so and it sounded real rough,
got home, tested the compression, it was down so i took the head off and it had burnt an exhaust valve.
replaced the valve, richened the mixture, but the rings on that cyl had gone too, ran it at the dyno day, was still a bit lean and fouling the plug on that cyl, got the mix about right and got 55hp atw @6000 down a cyl with a single SU which was alright cos max power was at the max revs i specified

the guy at the dyno said he thought i was down on one cyl which i already knew but hadnt told him which was cool.

went well after that but was still smoky so took it for a very expensive short motor rebuild.

The valve was bent for those that are interested.

No idea why, there are no marks in the piston, Its all fixed now and going well.

Thanks heaps to Grieg at Mini Classic for all his assistance, and for going beyond
what he was required to do.