Ironically, I was on the way back from the "mechanic" who said we have "issues" regarding a RWC.

It was early morning and I started and let it warm up, noticed it was missing a bit once I got going, and thought I'll give it a blast on the back road home, when at 70 odd k's it just stopped firing.

Once I coasted to a stop !.....I tried to start it and it turns over but seems to have no spark.

Plenty of fuel.

Noted one of the plugs was very loose on the distributor cap, putit back on to no avail.

Classic was, I rang the "mechanic", who I had asked to tune the car as well as fail my RWC, and told him that I was a kilometre from him and what had happened, and his repsonse was.....

" we didn't touch anything under the bonnet; have a fiddle around see how you go!"

Excellent, customer service is alive and well.

Consequently, the notoriously reliable mini was towed home for the first time.......

Appreciate any suggestions, where to look,

A1

silly things first..

check nothing has come undone..

leads, coil wires....


i had something similar happen.. and it was in the dizzy... the wire from the condenser had aged and crack off...

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First things first. GO and knock your mechanic's block off and the once you find the broken part on your mini, make sure you throw it through his window
Not the best or remotely legal advice, but definetly where I'd start

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88 Rover 1.3i "Reggie"
99 Rover 1.3i “Grover”
12 Mini Cooper S "The shitter"
17 Mini Clubman JCW “Noddy”

How did he tune it without touching anything under the bonnet?!? That's magic!

When it coasted to a stop, did it feel like it was running out of fuel? Could be the points on the dizzy not being lubed and staying closed? Or just incorrect point gap. I had this happen to me not that long ago, felt like the car was running out of fuel, just compressing up. It had the same symptoms as your Mini has.

Also check the rotor in the dizzy for cracks. I once went through the process of changing plugs, leads, coil, all sorts of crap and it turned out to be a cracked rotor

PS: Your mechanic is a tool.

Peace

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-Wasabi
1972 Clubman - Daily Driver
1962 850 - EW1 Powered

Check the "hot " wire that goes from the ignition to the starter solenoid , it's normally on the solenoid with a crimp on connector and they can be loose or corroded . Also check the normal sized wires going to the coil and distributer that they aren't frayed and earthing out on the motor . Check your points to see they are opening and sparking (distributer cap off and have someone try to start the mini with you watching , you should see a little spark between the contacts) . Is it a clubbie ? How's your ignition switch , is there a lot of play in it and do you have a heap of keys on your keyring ? They can wear and move away from the contacts inside .

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same thing happened to me and it turned out the fuel return line was unplugged so whenever i went over 60 it would starve so i used totake the back roads till i finally figured it out lol

Driving to Hay last year, it happened at 100kph a few times.

And finally it packed in whilst coasting in to get fuel in a little town.

The fuel station was an NRMA place, the only one for a long way.

He fixed it in 20 mins, with a multimetre he found that the lead inside the dizzy (goes to coil), connector had broken.

Fix up was free. And off we went, as anothert Hotbricks member drive past so we convoyed the rest of the 400kms or so (a smart thing to do, I had only had my mini on the road for 2 weeks prior to Hay so I didn't realise these things)

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

S850 alluded to it but check the coil earth wire as well.

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Michael N

I had a similar problem a few years ago that I couldn't trace for ages. It turned out to be the low-voltage wire (from the coil neg to the dizzy) had rubbed through on the body of the dizzy and was shorting out. Even when discovered, it was such a small mark that it was very difficult to see, and I couldn't believe it was the culpret, but replacing that wire had the car as good as gold.

Watto.

happened to me a few years ago, that time it was the little copper strip on top of the rotor button came loose.

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Noli Illegitimi Carborundum

It could be the distributor rotor or condensor. If the rotor is faulty it wil cause the car to stop all of a sudden, if the condensor is faulty it will usually give early signs by missing before finally causing the car to just stop.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

There have been problems overseas with Lucas rotors failing lately, and a mate of mine had it on his Morrie Minor too. I wonder if the aftermarket ones packed in Bosch boxes are better, or just same bits repackaged?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Folks,

Can I say what a great forum!! I really appreciate your suggestions, and will start the investigative process, as soon as I have regained a stable emotional state.

Really appreciate the feedback, and will report as soon as I get time to get the beast going again.....

A1