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 Post subject: Hydrolastic Lines????
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:15 am 
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Hi there

I am looking to replace the hydro lines on my 1100 and was wondering if anyone has done it with copper pipe? or that nylon pipe that they have in the uk? I am looking to re-route the pipes a bit to clear the new engine and have a friend who is a plumber who reckons copper would be fine.

If the copper is too weak can you get the steel bundy pipe stuff from anywhere?

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Madmorrie


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:28 am 
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It is not that high a pressure, so nylon, copper or steel tube would do the job. Nylon would be my choice (either buy a kit or buy the fittings & tube seperately from a hose or pneumatics supplier).

Bundy tube is available from most auto stores.

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 Post subject: 300 odd PSI
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:39 am 
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These lines take up to 330 PSI for the initial pump up....and who knows what sort of pressure on compression in the car....soft copper (prone to splitting?) or plakky don't seem like it would do the job to me....I would take a sample to Enzed or similar and get a quote (thats what I will be doing).

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 12:16 pm 
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Nylon is best suited to low preasure return lines. and never near any direct heat source. Hydrolastic doesnt have any 'return lines' so Id give that one a miss.

Copper/steel will need to be very well secured and protected from jarring and rubbing on the frame - mostly used for ridgid high preassure lines and is usually small diam.

Id suggest looking at replacement with same is it has - but move the lines to where you need them. Any shortening or lengthening of the system will change the amount of fluid and may change the characteristics of the main diaphrams (not sure on that one - I havent disected my mini to look at that yet).

Q: What kind of dampers are inside the lines to regulate the flow of fluid front to back, etc?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 3:15 pm 
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Mort Subite wrote:
Q: What kind of dampers are inside the lines to regulate the flow of fluid front to back, etc?


A. None. The restrictions are in the bags themselves.


Also nylon tubing & fittings are available with quite high pressure ratings, as they are commonly used in heavy industry, and are abrasion & oil resistant.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 7:42 pm 
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The Morris 1100 only has about 220psi of pressure (not as high as the Minis ~350psi), there are various nylon hoses that will do the job. talk to Pirtek but don't expect them to understand straight away! Probably take some samples and a workshop manual with you.

At work we have nylon tube that will take 3000+psi. :shock:


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 7:46 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
The Morris 1100 only has about 220psi of pressure (not as high as the Minis ~350psi), there are various nylon hoses that will do the job. talk to Pirtek but don't expect them to understand straight away! Probably take some samples and a workshop manual with you.

At work we have nylon tube that will take 3000+psi. :shock:

Years ago we used to run 1/8" HP nylon line for brakes on Formula Vees, all the way from MC to the wheel cylinders. :shock:
Pressure rating was 2500psi. 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 8:23 pm 
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My Vee had the nylon on the clutch but steel line for the brakes.


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 Post subject: Re: 300 odd PSI
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 8:18 am 
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9YaTaH wrote:
These lines take up to 330 PSI for the initial pump up....and who knows what sort of pressure on compression in the car....soft copper (prone to splitting?) or plakky don't seem like it would do the job to me....I would take a sample to Enzed or similar and get a quote (thats what I will be doing).


when we ran all out hydraulic inside the cabin in our rally car we used steed bundy tube. the copper lines are prone to work hardening from vibrations and then cracking, which is why you shouldn't use it for brake lines.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 7:48 pm 
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I would take the old hydro pipes to Pirtek or EnZed, they can make new steel lines no problem.
If pipes are gone, bend a bit of 1/4" steel fuel pipe to the right shape and take that. You can buy fuel pipe by the metre at real spare parts places. My local AutoPro stocks it.:wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 11:59 pm 
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I reckon if I was doing a hydro car from scratch and wasn't interested in originality, I'd put flexible lines in - I reckon in the long run it'd be a blessing.... no risk of denting them with the jack, if one ever broke in service you could join it with a bit of tube stuck down the inside

the volume in the system isn't an issue - it's the pressure that holds the car up, not how much is in there

but.... there are 1100's in paddocks that could donate

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 Post subject: 1100s
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 8:33 pm 
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skssgn wrote:
but.... there are 1100's in paddocks that could donate


With rusty inner and outer Hydro lines mate :D ....just be careful :idea:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2007 7:15 am 
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I need to make some longer pipes, for the Clubby van... :P
It's gonna ride and handle sweet......... on 10s of course. 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2007 7:16 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
I need to make some longer pipes, for the Clubby van... :P
It's gonna ride and handle sweet......... on 10s of course. 8)


I was toyign with doing that with my van - hence flexible lines

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2007 7:30 pm 
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Doesnt copper work harden? :? Which would ultimately cause it to become brittle and crack?

Hence, why we use bundy tube for brake pipes etc and not copper.

I would definetly use flexible lines and steer clear of copper but your plumbing mate or someone on here might be in more of position to give a better opinion.

Cheers
Matt

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