that's a really good question..... I am have designed radius arms for the rear of my awd conversion that take mini CV's, and that caliper, so hadn't checked them against a mini upright - I ran out to the garage and had a fiddle, here are the results...

this is a 7.5" rotor, as you can see, the mounting lugs for the mini caliper are flush with the rotor, and so are the mounting lugs on the honda caliper. They interfere with each other, and there doesn't look like any easy way to mount them

(the rotor in the pictures are sitting atop another broken rotor, so look a bit funny)


this is an 8.4" rotor, the situation is better, but still not perfect, aside from having the rotor turned down to fit under the wheel, about 5mm would need to be machined off the mounting lugs on the caliper (or 2.5mm off the caliper and the upright). It's worth noting that the rear honda rotor's mouting lug is 15mm thick, and the front one is only 11mm thick, so there is some 'spare meat' there



the situation isn't much better using a drum brake upright, the backing plate mounting face touches the rotor with a 7.5" rotor, and has about 8mm clearance with an 8.4" rotor - an adapter plate could be made to suit, but it would need a 7-8mm step in it

Probably not the silver bullet you were hoping for unfortunately - though obviously lots of japanese cars use a small rear caliper; I spotted a set on a Nissan Pulsar one day that looked good, Sports850 mentioned Corolla Seca ones once - I took a wheel and some bits to the wreckers one day and had a wander around to see what I could find, trial fitting when I found something that looked good.

I'd say most Japanese calipers mount the same way as these honda ones, flush with the rotor, so could have similar clearance issues

I'm keen to help you find a solution - or know what you come up with.... my co-conspirator keeps trying to convince me to ditch the radius arms at the back and use upper and lower A arms with Mini uprights, but I like my radius arms!

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

OK , I'll take a photo of the Seca ones in the morning for comparrison ...

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By the way , Nota Engineering , the company behind the Fang is still in buisiness and if you ring Chris Buckingham (designer of the Fang , or type 4 as it was properly known) he'd probably have some ideas . I've pesterred him with enough questions this month , must be your turn ...

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I have posted a few pics of the Twini Mini
These are a bit dated. The car is now on the ground and can be driven.
I should get some more photos this week and post them on the weekend.

wowwee! that's awesome - I'd love to see it in the flesh. Sensible move on the 998/1100 motors you're using, keeps the costs down

I've read articles about the different approaches people take to the various ways of setting them up - like adjustable bias on the clutch pedal so you can set up one to take up slower than the other... and other junk I don't remember

can we hope for a full write-up on what you've done?

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Also get the handling/braking setup properly with usable power before you go all out

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Either is a twini.

Yeap I was wondering that. There were a few on the road legally years ago.. I helped build one back in 1970 or so.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

u might have to sit with your head through the roof with are large tunnel like that. lloks very good though

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

How do you change gears on the rear engine?

With the gearstick.

Various ways , you can use a rigid bar bent down and under the gearbox to locate the rod change on a late box , or remove reverse and put the change rod through the box and out the front (seen one done in the flesh , very neat and it was like a normal mini to manouver with front wheel drive only in reverse) .

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With the remote boxes it was pretty common to cut a slot in the remote extensions 1/2 way along, then connect them together with 2 split clamp levers with a bar between them.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.