I need to remove both master cylinders from the firewall to start the rust removal & respray of the engine bay.

I know about the pins needing to be removed from the pedal box attaching the piston rod to the pedals, but my question is HTF do you get in there and get at them? Is there an easy way?

Haha...im interested in thsi one two. Gone to fit the beam for the rotisserie today and realised the bloody cylinders were in the way.

And getting to those pins is nothign short of a pain in the ass it seems....

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[Maverick] 1971 Mini K

When I did them on the traveller I just used a pair of point nose piers to pull the pin. You might need to take the weight off the pin and spin it to a good position. A leed light will also help!
Reards Paul

hmmm - rotate the pin - good tip - that might be enough to get it, thanks

Don't want to come and do mine by any chance? [only jokin]

Okay I'v done this Many times now....Take the Drivers Seat Out
Best thing you can do....
Wait till you get to the bolts under the Master Cyclinders..Pain

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I read somewhere that when you put them back put a small split ring in the end of the pin and it gives you something to grip - for that matter why not try and put one in to pull it in the first place?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Don't stuff round with split pins, get some R-clips..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hmm i never thought of that. I need to put the split pin back in the clutch so i'll just steal the r clip from my r/c car

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Thanks guys - split pins are out, clutch pin is out, brake side is being a pain but we'll get there.

Thanks Gafmo - i've just found the bolts of which you speak!

I found if you put the open ended spanner standing up you can put a srew drive in the closed end. but becarefull you dont round the nut

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Do that many of times and yes what a Pain to do.

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I've Got One
You've Got One
We've All Got One
What Is It



A Bloody Mini

1970 Mini K, 1380cc, 1.75 HIF SU, 30 70 Cam, 2" Zorts
1969 Mini K, Stock Standard and Orginal. (Slow as Hell)

Go to Toolworks or Repco or wherever and get a 1/2" crowsfoot spanner. It looks like the end of an open ender cut off, with a 3/8 square hole in it for a socket bar.

Only way to get 13secmini's nuts off, eh Brad..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

When I had to do it, I bet my sister 10 bucks that she couldnt get those two pins out, two hours later I owed her ten bucks!

haha worth every penny

Pain in the ass that job..haha stupid me tried forcing in a new pin that's supposed to go in the bottom of the clutch arm after being given it as a replacement when i asked for a new one ..the big chunky one haha..needless to say it didn't fit, but i got it wedged in the hole a few times

Once i got the right sized pin, it was much easier to get a new one in the hole than use the old one i took out, R clip helps too eh Doc

I found that if you tap the clutch pedal lightly to take all the slack out of the arm, it will spin the pin around so you can position the split pin where you want it to get it out..

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Thanks Doc - youv'e done it again - that's the tool I need

Now if I could only get this bl**dy bake clevis pin to come out! [turns out the split pins were the R type already, they'll be much easier to put back in.]