A008's are easy to get - my local bob jane ordered in the wrong set for me and they were there the next day (so they sent them back). I'm not aware of any problems with supply as it took a day to get the set that are on my car now.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

well when it does come to the sizes mines about 2" from the ground...
but nah seriously.. when thinking about brakes- from what i have found brake parts are cheaper for 8.4".. bigger the better i would say... but if u want the look of the 10"... they look yummy with wide tyres and a lowered mini..

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in reality... it's a braking question

the only reason for going to bigger wheels should be so you can fit bigger brakes, which you should only need to do if you are increasing performance beyongd the limits of the standard braking system...

The tyres on an F1 car have as much sidewall as they can get, and since the car weighs sweet FA, they don't need a lot of braking (and probably run inboard discs anyway, so the tyres only need to clear the hub) it's a lot of sidewall

the tyres on a V8 supercar have sod all sidewall, because the cars weigh heaps, they need massive brakes, and they're limited to where they can put the brakes (no inboards), so their wheels are gigantic, and have very little sidewall

compare





edit: so when you see those ricers with their massive wheels, and teeny tiny stock brakes, you're right to laugh at them, their car rides like sh!t, and handles like sh!t, just because they want to look cool

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I do have that 7.5" set-up on the Deluxe, just wondering how much of the brake set-up I can salvage seeing as the car has been sitting idle since 1986

I'm more interested in the handling and availability of stock, but the latter seems to have been addressed quite nicely here - thank you one and all

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it'll be fine, likely to need caliper seals, and a godo chance some new pistons, but they're just consumables... you won't need to replace any components

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Cool - I hope so Now how do I clean 'em up so I can start the rebuild...?

( Gee, skssgn, there's something about your eyes... )

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What an interesting read this thread is

At one stage (for about 2 days) I ran 13" rims on the rear and 10" rims on the front, purely because i needed to source some new 10" tyres. I found the handling to be absolutely awesome. The steering remained light, and the rear was VERY VERY grippy. Although I wouldnt do it again as I dont know how legal it was...

I have only ever run 10"s all around other than those two days. Once the rover arrives it will be 12"s all around. Will be interesting to see the difference between my Clubbies/1100's and this Rover.

What is this talk of issues with selecting 12" tyres ? Are they hard to get ? Expensive ? I didnt even think of that when selecting the Centerlines. (Not that I have much choice with the 8.4"s)

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No more Minis!......For now.

Pretty much falkens or A048R's at the moment i think?

I think you'll find the handling of the Rover a bit more refined as you can definately feel the rubber mounted subframe. It's slightly less connected to to the road, but reduces alot of vibration.

Every setup can be made good, it's just that 10's are so light and feel good even if the rest of your suspension setup isn't up to scratch. It's takes a good bit of gear to keep the heavier wheels under control.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Agree..as long as you have good quality tyres fitted.Yoko A048R(165/55)-12's
aren't much difference.

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I had 10's for a few years and now i have change to 12's, i think it all depends on tyre choice. I have dunlop DO1J.

Steve

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Classic Not Plastic

Which is right guys, but a semi slick is a bit much for a daily when thats the only performance tyre available.

10's have the performance street tire covered with the A008's at the moment. 12's used to have A539's...but alas they are no more

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

dont forget these..
put the simex or falkens on a roadie, and your semi slicks on for a club racer or weekend warrior

i agree that the yoko 539's were the best road tyre, and the 12" with yokos were my favourite combination out of all the types i've driven

http://www.minisport.com.au/prod644.htm


http://www.minisport.com.au/prod645.htm

All current F1 cars brakes are outboard. They run the size of tyre they do because its compulsory. If they could they would return to the wider and larger tyres of the 80s. The FIA reduced the tyre size to decrease speed and decrease braking ability (to assist the speed reduction) that is why F1 cars have the grooves down the tyre to reduce the contact patch and therefore grip.

V8 supercars are also limited by the rules and are limited by the size the wheelarch in the silouette of the car.

Sidewall size does not impact braking, only sidewall strength. The contact patch has the biggest impact on braking.

A 12 inch tyre will brake better than a 10 inch tyre because the 12 inch tyre has greater contact per revolution and therefore impacts friction and therefore braking better.

Simex are blurgh....and are they available locally?

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

If you are braking or accelerating in the wet though, the narrower it is the better. More weight per square inch to squeegee the water out.
One reason Falken FK07Es (165/70-10) are NBG in the wet is their width- once they get a bit worn, the water can't get out of the shallow grooves quick enough.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.