i cant get the driveshaft nut off..
ffs

the biggest lever i have is the torque wrench.

i dont have a rattle gun.

any ideas?

Make sure everything is out of the split pin hole (I've seen some stuff jammed in the threads before) , clean the nut completely with a wire brush and some wd40 or similar , get a bit of water pipe about 3 foot long and slip it over your socket bar (not torque wrench , you might upset it with the pressure) and pull like hell . Be careful though , when it lets go it'll probably dump you on the ground .

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And make sure you are holding the hub properly so it can't turn.
I use a 150mm square bit of 12mm plate with 4 stud holes, and a big 50mm+ hole in the middle . It has a 300mm long bit of 20mm bar welded out like a handle, I sit that on a housebrick.
Of course if the brakes work you can just get someone to sit in the car and press like mad...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ahh thanks alot, you guys are awesome.

i forgot the old slip the pipe over trick

i didnt have any pipe but something else caught my eye..

it came loose no worries

just spent like 30 mins trying to undo the ball joint, i bought a splitter, but that was a useless piece of crap

i busted my hand finally getting it apart

this is the new ball joint i had to install because i had to belt the crap out of the original one to get it apart when i was doing the hi-los.

i can remember not having a deep socket for the ball joint nut at that time either.

how the fk am i supposed to get the driveshaft out of the hub?
do i remove the brake rotor
or do i remove all the ball joints (fk i hate ball joints)

You can remove the drive shaft and the CV once the disc is off by sliding it out. So yeah, you need to undo the brake disc/drive flange. The big nut is allready off so you are already there. The bearings will be left behind.

The driveshaft itself is held into the CV by a detent spring. This means it may come out easily enough, but you will need to give it a bit of a shock to get it moving. Holding the driveshaft in your hand with the CV hanging down, use the other hand to tap (or bash if you like) the edge of the CV cup with a soft rubber or leather mallet. It should drop away although you will question yourself as you try this.. Do it over a pile of rags or similar as it will drop to the ground. mind your feet, it hurts when it falls on your toes.

If you don't remove the CV boot, you will tear it. So it's a good time to clean it out and regrease it after removing the shaft.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

edit - HANG ON, OF COURSE YOU'VE GOT TO REMOVE THE ROTOR - THE ROTOR IS ATTACHED TO THE DRIVE FLANGE, PULL THE DRIVE FLANGE OFF (excuse caps - want to make it stand out from my original post below)

put the nut back on it loosely, and whack it with a bit of big bit of wood, it'll come out - optionally remove the inner race of the outer bearing

use wood, cos it won't damage anything

obviously the driveshaft needs to be out of the inner CV, otherwise it doesn't have anywhere to go when you whack it

wheel bearings are easiest done on the bench, cos you've gotta be careful getting the outer races in and out - if it's the wheel bearings you're working on - I'm not reading a 3 page thread about sockets to find out, sorry

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

yeah i need to do the wheel bearing,

so i remove the caliper? then the rotor/flange?

i undid the lower arm mount..
should be fun putting it back together.

i got the bearings out now i gotta figure which bit goes where.

its got an inbuilt spacer in the hub , but the new bearings also have a spacer, do i still use the spacer?

also one bearing is marked 8400 and the other one 8400A

there is a split ring surplus, i am guessing this goes back between the rubber seal and the bearing cone on the inboard side?

Yes use the spacer, if it is large split ring about the size of the outer bearing race, then yes it fits between the seal and the bearing race on the inboard side of the hub.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

cool, cos i've already done it hehe