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 Post subject: 1310 rev limit
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:18 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 10:58 am
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Location: Melbourne
does anybody know what the rev limit for a 1310 is (roughly)

Apart from the engine size i cant tell you much about the car, has 1.5" carby and sounds like its got a rough cam in it (i've been confused for trucks), i usually dont push it much past 4000rpm (been up to 5) as i have no idea what its limit is.

from what i've looked up it should be around 6500, is there anyway of finding it out without blowing the engine up?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:26 am 
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998cc
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Location: ASQUITH NSW, Engine size:1310
i cant tell you but you will get better results if you post what work you had done to it, who by, block and head nubers,

my 1310 with lumpy ass cam hits valve bounce at 6850rpm and that was by mistake

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:38 am 
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1360cc
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keep it below 6 and ya should be right.

depends quite a bit on the work done to the engine though.

the GT (cooperS) had a 6500 redline, but thats only if you have a cooper S or GT engine, the 1275 LS wouldnt be the same, probably 5500?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:40 am 
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1360cc
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she wont be breathing too well at high rpms with a single 1.5 carby either


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:56 am 
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1360cc
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Location: ADL
8000 rpm no worries :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 12:00 pm 
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depending on the work, i think with that carb you'll struggle to go much higher than 5500-6000 anyway...

but 6k should be fine as long as everything is ok and not worn.

Best way is to bring it along to one of our dyno days and see where the power starts to drop off..that's your practical rev limit as there is no point going higher.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 5:27 pm 
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My mild 1310, with 45mm weber, slightly worked AEG163 head, GR 731 grind cam regually see's just over 7,000 rpm in motorkhana's with no drama's.

Doogie

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 5:29 pm 
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1275cc
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Or maybe try a dyno closer to home? eg. Melbourne :idea:

I think the point of max power is key. I have a self imposed rpm limit of 6 grand. On the dyno it is still making power past that, but I jsut don't care enough to go much higher to see if I can get a few more hp down on the dyno graph.

It all comes down to your setup. But I agree with the above, the 1.5 carby isn't gonna let it breathe all that well.

I recommend finding a good 1.75, HS6 or HIF6/44. Re-kitting it etc. Then getting a confident, local dyno guy, who knows Minis and SU's and getting it setup up beautifully, then you'd know your max power rpm and you'd have a faster, better performing, and possibly more fuel economical Mini. :D

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 5:47 pm 
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The rpm limit is dependant on two things, the point at which valve bounce occurs (std this is usually anything from 5500 up) and the strength of the bottom end.

If you have lightweight valve gear and correct springs then valve bounce won't occur till very high in the rpm range. The problem is that often the strength of other parts such as conrod bolts are not up to the task and decide to part company, destroying the engine and box on the way out.

There is a particular problem I've found with std motors and its those times of accidental free over-rev like a missed gearchange or something more silly like burnouts in the rain or on grass/mud.

As the piston is not exposed to a pressure force from above, the mass of the piston/conrod assembly trys to separate from the bottom end. This momentarily stretches the conrod bolts and over a few revs its enough to relax the preload off the bolt and say hello sunshine at last as it exits the block. ask any of your mates with stock engines that have blown what they were doing prior!

Daniel

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 5:58 pm 
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1275cc
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Questions - How old is the crank, has it been reground, has the bottom end been balanced?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 6:19 pm 
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998cc
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i found mine out the old fashion way stick the foot in and the cable jamming only about 6500 and i required new pants in the process i wouldnt suggest it

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 7:35 pm 
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If it's stock I would say 6000.
If worked and built properly with ARP rod bolts, S crank and rods, 8000 is OK. My 1310S with Mahle forged flat tops and VP3 cam, 45 Dellorto carb went to 8000, often. 8)

I agree with the others it won't go near that with a single HS4 carb. Peak power will be well below 6000. So no point going past that.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 8:47 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 9:38 am
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Location: Adelaide, South Australia
5999 rpm...
a lot changes at 6000.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 12:53 am 
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848cc
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i really cant tell you much about th eengine as i didn't put it in and the guy before me brought the engine seperate from the car, i'll have a chat to him tomorrow and find out.

you're all right about the carby, doesnt make much power past about 4500, cant get fuel quick enough i think. whats best twins or a webber? i can get a twin setup for $100 but i've heard that because of the trouble with tunning them i'm probably better off with a single webber that i could easily tune myself.

got my money today so my new wheels and disks are going on next week as well as a new gearbox from my clubman at home. would the guys at link auto be able to tell me what kind of stuff its got in it when they put the gearbox in?

thanks for all the assistance everybody. i will tell you what it's got in the engine mods section once i know for sure.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 7:41 am 
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1098cc
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Fuel is not the problem, it's the qty of air that makes hp.

The argument of whether a SU's or a Weber is better has been going on for years. IMHO the average joe can't tune either properly, the only thing that most people do is adjust the idle mixture. This means bugger all for actual HP, the mixture at the top end is hardly affected by the idle mixture setting.

So, arguments aside, unless you want to rebuild your engine to race or something, I would go with twin SU's or better still a single 1&3/4" SU. Get the inlet manifold off Russell Engineering for the single.

Daniel

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