Hi,

I'm pretty sure that the splines have warn on one of the wheel studs - probably from over tightening.

Has anyone had this problem before, and if so how did you get the wheel off when the nut and stud just spins in the hub/disk assembly?

The only thing that I can think of is to grind off the wheel nut, at least enough so that I can grip the stud.

Any tips will be much appreciated, thanks.

what kind of nut are we talking about
if its a standard wheel nut, you could grind a slot into the stud and put a screwdriver in, and use a ring spanner ?

I don't think that it is standard. It's a one of those fancy chrome "blind" ones where it caps the stud (the hole doesn't go all the way through).

But I could grind the end off until the stud is visible.

unless you can get some vicegrips or something on the back of the stud?
its been awhile since i've had to do studs, im sure someone can come up with something besides ruining the nut

I dont think it's worth messing around with, just grind/cut the whole lot off and replace the stud and nut....

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1962 Morris 850.....with a 1310

1998 Toyota starlet.....161.1hp atw

Jack the car up and put it securely on some good stands , remove the other 3 nuts and then , without putting your legs or anything under the car get someone to pull the wheel towards them from the side opposite the remaining nut . It should put enough tension on the stud to bite in that last time so you can remove the wheel and change the stud . Just be very careful that while someone is pulling on the wheel there's a greater chance of it coming off the axle stands so make sure it's secure first .

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Saftey Saftey Saftey...but as Sports has said it the only way I can see to get the wheel nut off without chopping into the nut

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

That method has worked for me a couple of times.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Hi Phil,
You haven't said what model you have or if it's a front or back wheel. If your car is an 850 with drum brakes and it's a back wheel, I would proceed as follows. Undo the bearing nut and remove the whole wheel/hub/drum and put a small weld on the head of the stud.

If it's a front one, undo the drive-flange nut and proceed the same way as the rear.

Regards
Al

I drilled mine off once lost the locking nut key then found it after I drilled it lol.

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Or ritey - Classic Minis Only For Me

Dunno why, but I'm thinking get a high power rattle gun and keep it going till it comes off.
Eventually, heat will build up and weld the stud into the hub.

I've had this problem twice. The first time I cut the nut off with an angle grinder - a touch messy. The second time I marked the centre of the nut with a cold chisel and then drilled it straight through - much quicker than method number one. And no damage to the wheel!

I would suggest when you get it out you replace the stud and the drive flange. Don't just araldite a new stud in. Or you'll have this problem twice.

Hi 66S,
It is the front wheel with disk brakes. If I undo the drive-flange nut will the whole thing be able to be removed with the break callipers attached?

My plan of attack is to give sports850's solution of pulling the tire whilst securely supported on the jack. Failing that I will see if the whole assemby can be removed by undoing the drive-flange nut as suggested by 66S. And failing that I'll drill it (sounds neater than grinding it away).

Tanks all for your ideas, I'll let you know how I go.

It depends which disc brakes.
If it's 8.4s the studs are in the drive flange- just undo big nut, remove caliper, and pull the drive flange off. you can then weld it or whatever to undo the wheel nut.

If it's S brakes the studs are in the rotor- you won't be able to see them, even after you do as above and then pull the whole drive flange/rotor assy off.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Sport850's solution of pulling on the tire (I gave it a few thumps with a malet as well) worked - I must admit that I didn't have high hopes of success with this method.

Once I removed the stud it was obvious that this isn't the first time this has been a problem. The back of the stud had been tack welded to the hub, but this weld has since failed. Pulling on the tyre either engaged the last of the splines or made the rough edge of the weld catch and hold.

Anyway thanks for all the help.

Now where can I get new hubs and studs in or near Canberra?

And how do I tell what type of Disc brakes I have (8.4s or S brakes as mentioned by Kevin a.k.a. Dr Mini above)?.