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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:39 am 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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you will have no problems with the superlights clearing the brakes.

you need to buy a complete disc setup from brickworks or miniimports or whoever you can get it from.

you can go NEW or second hand - but remember that with the second hand ones you will need to either pay someone to recondition them or do it yourself.

You have the choice of 7.5" S setup or the 8.4" LS/Rover Setup. Both will fit your 12" wheels fine, but if you go 8.4 you will never be able to fit 10's.

Steering arms should hopefully come still on the hubs, not sure how they're sold though.

You basically want a complete hub ready to change over. That includes new CV's bearings, ball joints etc. Then it's just a matter of swapping it over.

The drums are easy to swap and i would say do it yourself. just get any pair of spacered drums, just check if they are worn or not.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:40 am 
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998cc
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brickworx wrote:
Disc brakes have the same spacing on the front as step drums...
to make your rear look similar, make sure you have step drums(this is not essential though)
rear wheel cylinders are the same between drums and 8.4 discs.
m/cylinder may have to be rekitted(depending on model)
use your steering arms.
that is all you should need


Thanks, always good help....Nice boot by the way...

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:41 am 
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Thanks Mini Mad

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 6:34 pm 
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998cc
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so what i get from all this is 8.4inch disks widen your track but by how much. and you need to change your steering arms. is this right.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 6:58 pm 
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They widen the track by approx 1 inch either side.
don't forget the master may need rekitting
there is a difference between drum brake and disc brake master cylinders

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 7:22 pm 
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998cc
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im running 13 by 7s on my car with sportspack arches so these disks will be a problem for me wouldn't they as track width is already pretty wide

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 7:31 pm 
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badassmini wrote:
im running 13 by 7s on my car with sportspack arches so these disks will be a problem for me wouldn't they as track width is already pretty wide

correct... but all 'legal' disc brake setups have the wider track

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 8:21 pm 
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graham in aus wrote:
Isn't there an issue with steering arms here?

I think all aussie steering rack are like the older english "Mk1" with limited lock?

Later UK cars had more lock, and changed the steering arms to suit?

Cerainly Rover sportspack Coopers had a different set up? (13" wheels?)

Anyone want to comment? :?: :?

All Oz cars had steering arms of Mk1 geometry. Early ones on 850 etc were thin but the same shape.
When the Cooper S & Mini Deluxe came out they made them thicker but they are still Mk1 geometry.
Many have since been fitted with Mk2-on UK racks with scant regard for changing steering arms too. The main purveyors of UK racks here don't seem to sell the later arms..
My take on this is yes, we get away with it, but tyres probably scrub as you approach full lock.
:wink:

<edit> if you wonder what you have, the UK Mk2-on arms have 2 little ears near the end.

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Last edited by drmini in aust on Thu Sep 20, 2007 8:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 8:25 pm 
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brickworx wrote:
don't forget the master may need rekitting
there is a difference between drum brake and disc brake master cylinders


Specifically, what is the difference? I'm doing a drum -> disc conversion next week, I have all the bits I (think I) need but haven't considered the master cylinder. It's the large diameter plastic reservoir type (PBR or Lockheed).

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 8:48 pm 
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Brake master should generally be 0.7".
drum brake masters have an extra valve in them.
most mini masters are worn out and will work with drum or disc

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:23 pm 
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I used the standard drum large diameter plastic reservoir master cylinder for several years with my Cooper S disks, no worries. I now use a standard drum brake plastic reservoir m/c (the modern replacement for the tin type), with my metro four pots, again no worries. In the tin type days, I believe the only difference between the drum and cooper S one was the volume of the reservoir, they were both available with .70"diameter cylinders, but the cooper S one held more fluid. As the disk pads wear down you need extra volume of brake fluid. Not an issue if you are aware of it and check your brake fluid regularly.

You should reduce the size of the rear wheel cylinders when converting to disks or you'll find that the extra pedal pressure that unboosted disks require cause the rears to lock up too easily. I use cooper S ones.

Tim

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:34 pm 
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Timbo wrote:
I used the standard drum large diameter plastic reservoir master cylinder for several years with my Cooper S disks, no worries. I now use a standard drum brake plastic reservoir m/c (the modern replacement for the tin type), with my metro four pots, again no worries. In the tin type days, I believe the only difference between the drum and cooper S one was the volume of the reservoir, they were both available with .70"diameter cylinders, but the cooper S one held more fluid. As the disk pads wear down you need extra volume of brake fluid. Not an issue if you are aware of it and check your brake fluid regularly.

You should reduce the size of the rear wheel cylinders when converting to disks or you'll find that the extra pedal pressure that unboosted disks require cause the rears to lock up too easily. I use cooper S ones.

Tim

If your master cylinder is working 100% properly as a drum brake master(with discs fitted) your brakes should lock on...
Only need to change the rear wheel cylinders with 7.5" brakes due to their lack of efficiency without a booster

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:59 pm 
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If you intend to fit "stepped" rear drums, you will also have to fit extended rear wheel studs to compensate for the extra 1".

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