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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 10:25 am 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2004 8:35 am
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Location: Somewhere Around Sydney
Yeap - Simon is right, Col Potts Engineered my car:

COL POTTS ENGINEERING PTY LTD ACN: .095 823 206 ALL
CORRESPONDENCE TO:
55 MONTAGUE STREET, FAIRY MEADOW 2519
FACSIMILE: 61 242274811
MOBILE: 0428 421 065

Replaced the front and rear main seals yesterday and did the timing belt, Rear one was a bit leaky on both motors, so for the $43 it costs it's not hard to replace!!

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 1:09 pm 
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Mini Mad wrote:
Replaced the front and rear main seals yesterday and did the timing belt, Rear one was a bit leaky on both motors, so for the $43 it costs it's not hard to replace!!


agreed - with the amount these conversions cost, you'd be nuts not to spend a couple of hundred bucks to freshen up the motor before wringing it's neck

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 2:56 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Concord West, NSW
Just a note, don't waste Col's time if you are not serious !!!

Dan


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 8:46 pm 
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While it's off the road i've decided to upgrade a few bits that i should/would have done later.

One of those is the clutch. I put an Exedy Heavy Duty clutch in there first off and upon removal of the motor upon inspection it wasn't holding up too well after only 100 odd km's..Since i don't want to be pulling this out again any time soon, i employed the services of Specialised Brake and Clutch Services at St Mary's. Kevin Gavin there is a champ and unlike many other actually makes custom clutches there.

I explained to him what i wanted (Daily Street Abuse + Track Day a couple of times a year and Drag Strip abuse, plus the fact that i dont want to be changing clutches anytime soon and he came back to me with this:

It's a 4-Puck Ceramic Button Job with a 650kg Pressure Plate. Standard one is 400kg. It is supposedly alot more civilised than typical brass button clutches and has a fairly low clamping force. I will be really interested in comparing this to the Cushioned Button clutches that Dan and other's are using.


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I'm also getting a set of custom urethane engine mounts made up, if any of the starlet guys are interested let me know ;)

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:38 am 
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1360cc
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oo nice one


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 5:11 pm 
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Mini Mad wrote:
I'm also getting a set of custom urethane engine mounts made up, if any of the starlet guys are interested let me know ;)


What sort of difference would these make? A stiffer mount with a little less flex? Excuse my stupidity...

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 7:08 pm 
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I had already made a tear in one of the mounts.

These are custom made with the power generated in mind. Dean went solid mounted because the stock mounts just wont hold up to the kind of power we're making.

The ones i'm getting made will apparently never break...

Can't remember whether matt solid mounted yours.

These will stick isolate the motor vibrations as well :)

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 7:24 pm 
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998cc
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Mini Mad

What sort of $$$$ are you talking to get the mounts made up? Is it cheaper by the dozen? Do they use any of the existing mount (Like do they remove the rubber and replace it with polyurethane) or are they all new?

I'd probably be interested in a set if not too much, otherwise I was going to sikaflex mine.

I'm sure there will be a bunch of starlet guys lining up for them, they seem to be a consumable.

Madmorrie


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 1:07 am 
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998cc
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JOSH'S Urethane bushes are a great Idea, They provide less dampening than the rubber ones. And are smoother than deans solid mount idea...personally I think I am going down the solid mount path if I don't have room for urethane... the dentist will love me when it shakes all my fillings out :lol: :lol:

But on the upside, they are much more durable, and don't allow the engine to flex around in the engine bay, it's a good way of getting a better response from throttle (as the motor doesn't turn in the engine bay)

a word of advice from experience. make them a real tight fit, it works better and they last longer. anneal the fresh cut surfaces.

if you have access to a lathe you can buy urethane in red and blue in a turnable cylinder, (perfect for engine mounts as they are usually round) then you need to anneal the surface (warm oven for a while, just don't tell the missus most won't approve) :?

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Last edited by HPDesign on Fri Sep 21, 2007 1:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 1:08 am 
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998cc
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OOOOOHHHH, and noice crutch Josh :D :D :D

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 2:06 pm 
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998cc
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Not wanting to sound obnoxious but all this talk about solid mounting etc seems a bit OTT mine are the original rubber mounts and the engine barely moves and I really think makes a poofteenth of difference as far as throttle response is concerned. As for flex, I have always been under the impression that rubber mounts were as much there to ALLOW flex as to inhibit it. All engines, chassis etc flex inhibiting this flexing to me is a sure way to achieve cracked mounts, engine blocks etc especially in the case of cast iron blocks such as the Starlet. Also the Starlet engine unlike the Mini engine has three engine mounts (engine steadies are an augmentation), which supports the engine on all three axii.

Just my 2c.

Cheers Matt

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 2:11 pm 
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998cc
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HP

Any idea where you get this urethane cylinders?

Madmorrie


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 3:17 pm 
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minstar wrote:
Not wanting to sound obnoxious but all this talk about solid mounting etc seems a bit OTT mine are the original rubber mounts and the engine barely moves and I really think makes a poofteenth of difference as far as throttle response is concerned. As for flex, I have always been under the impression that rubber mounts were as much there to ALLOW flex as to inhibit it. All engines, chassis etc flex inhibiting this flexing to me is a sure way to achieve cracked mounts, engine blocks etc especially in the case of cast iron blocks such as the Starlet. Also the Starlet engine unlike the Mini engine has three engine mounts (engine steadies are an augmentation), which supports the engine on all three axii.

Just my 2c.

Cheers Matt


I agree with Matt...

Though IMO the stock mounts from the front cut aren't up to the task of cars pushing twice factory power...you may get away with it, but for how long is the question..

I will find out more info RE: getting mounts cheaper if we get a few orders.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 3:39 pm 
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Having recently replaced my (stockish) Swift Gti engine mounts with urethane units I was suprised with the perceived improvements in gearchange & handling.

Perhaps you could just fit off-the-shelf polurethane bushings into your existing mounts:
http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/vth.29990.bearing+press.htm
You might even find the Suzi ones might fit as they are a similar 1.3L axial 3-mount design :idea:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 4:19 pm 
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whats the cost, our gti could use some i think.


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