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 Post subject: steering
PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 7:52 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Sep 05, 2006 5:26 pm
Posts: 42
Location: NW Tasmania
Hi again
I put the front subframe and steering rack in last week 8)
But with a few problem,
i had to screw the tie rods most of the way out to get the wheels straight, is this normal :?:
the when i try to screw the nut on the tie rod end the thread shaft thing just spins with it, is there any way to fix this or is it buggered :?:
also on the swivel hub assembly the upper and lower swivel jionts spin when i try to put the nut on aswell :?:
any help would be greatfully apprieciated :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:22 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2007 8:10 pm
Posts: 325
Location: Feilding, New Zealand
Dont eye up the alignment it will be miles out. Use a tape measure take a reading at the front of tyre from a tread grove in tyre and in the same grove on the other tyre. Then measure on back of tyre in the same groves try and get the measurment the same this will give you zero toe which will be enough to get to alignment shop. you should be able to loosen lock nuts against tie rods and then turn rack end either way to set toe and then tighten again. With the ball joints you need to put tension on top and bottom arms to push ball joint taper into arm to hold shaft tight for you to tighten nuts put a jack on bottom arms to push up on taper dont lift car only need a little tension on arm. And for top arms get a lever bar on top arm and push down to tension ball joint taper and tighten nut


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 Post subject: front end issues
PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:28 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2006 1:50 pm
Posts: 127
Location: Melbourne, VIC
If the tie rod ends are screwed out most of the way it's probably because you are setting a bit of negative camber in your suspension? If so, it pays to get longer 'extended tie rod ends' aka competition tie rod ends. The thread depth is longer therefore it's alot safer - recommended.

The nut on the tie rod end will spin like you say, it's normal. What I do is push the boot down and clamp the shaft down low with pliers (don't use too much force), then you can do up the nut. From memory I didn't have this problem with the ball joints but it may be the same procedure for them too.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:32 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 11:32 am
Posts: 449
Location: Canberra ACT
I had heard the story about extra length tie rods with negat.ive camber so went to some trouble to get such a set (I already had a set of normal ends). I have something over 2 deg negative (used to be 1 1/2 and has settled some) and found the extra length entirely unnecessary. The lengthened ones are only about 2 or 3 mils longer while the engagement was about 20 mms.

Grab the tie rod end with a pair of pliers while winding on the nut - after all that's what the pro will do when he sets the toe angle.

Cheers, Ian


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:58 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Sep 05, 2006 5:26 pm
Posts: 42
Location: NW Tasmania
oh so you only need to put tension on the swivel jionts and tie rod end
ill try that tomorow but sounds promissing 8)
thanks for the help
very much aprieciated :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 6:40 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2007 8:10 pm
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Location: Feilding, New Zealand
Put tension on arms not the joints this will push down on joint taper and stop it from spinning


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 6:39 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Sep 05, 2006 5:26 pm
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Location: NW Tasmania
yeah i just finished :) , it took some time but i did it
unfortunately when i finished one of the wheels was out of line by too much
but ill go up and fix that tomorrow
thanks for the help again :)


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