set it to 20V scale. Put prongs one on each stud.
As he said should read near zero, anything more than 1.0V I'd bin the solenoid.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Volts DC. You are looking for a voltage drop across the points under FULL LOAD.

if you do not do it with the starter motor connected, it will look for all the world like it is doing just fine (ie the out put will be zero volts).

If it is faulty, you will see a decent reading of volts here (up to 13). If it is crap, you may also feel heat on the studs fitted to the relay.

If all is well here, then the starter motor is next to check (as well as your connections both here, on the starter motor, and in the boot) Don't forget to check the earth strap. (you got one right?? )

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Experienced these symptoms a couple of times previously. Once was the solenoid and once was the starter!

Pull the armature out of the starter and check the grooves on the commutator - this makes contact with the brushes and does wear down smooth over time. If this is the problem, you can usually 'regroove' it with a junior hacksaw and get a couple more years out of it.

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1971 Clubman GT - Jet Red
1980 Mini 1000 - Bold As Brass
1967 Riley Elf - Red/White
2002 MINI Cooper - BRG/White
2005 MINI Cooper - BRG/White
2022 MINI Cooper SE - BRG/White

Just make suer the car is in Neutral and brigde across the two terminal nuts with an old screw driver and see if the starter will turn. Make sure you do not ark on the threads of the studs or it will be very hard to un do them if needed. If the spark is too large it could be that the starter has a heavy current draw and will need repair. If the spark is not there or too small and Starter does nothing then the starter is faulty. Then you can fit a Gemini one !!

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

It was the starter

The only working spare I have has a loose terminal on the end of it.

Can this be tightened? It just seems to spin and not tighten. I know the starter is good, so if I can tighten this terminal I can use it.

Hi,just had the same problem,every thing checked out fine,just a click from ignition and solenoid but nothing from starter.Friend put it into gear and rocked it,said the starter wasnt engaging properly,he has had the same thing happen before.Hope yours is as easy to fix. Cheers

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Hopefully the front end always goes first. Rob

Yea that's a good point you have raised. I have had to do that in the past.

My starter and 2 spares I had were duds. I removed them and put jumper leads straight onto them. They spun VERY slowly. The only good one I have spun very quick when I did the same, but the terminal on the end is loose and works intermittently.

mad- mk1 was doing this exact thing, thought i had wiring issues, but the solenoid has to be earthed to the block.

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-jamie-
1963morris 850
1965 solid side van
1994 rover racecar

okay over the weekend you must have played a little bit more GT

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I know... it's amazing isn't it!!!


and... I got to watch some Bathurst!

Undo the two springs on the end of the starter motor, and then withdraw the plate. You should be able to deal with the loose terminal from the inside.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I was thinking that.... but just wasn't sure. How is it attached?

I'll give it a whirl tomorrow Ta.

Just two long screws. It's pretty easy stuff, you will see how easy it is to replace the brushes as well. So you can fix that one or put new brushes in another.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

yea i was going to put new brushes in all my dead ones. I hear they are cheap as chips!

You are probably going to find that if it needs new brushes then it also needs the commutator skimmed and undercut. When you open the starter motor you will probably see that commutator where the brushes go is worn convex and worn right down to the black insulation stuff.

Then if your going to go that far you might as well press in a couple of new bushes at either end.