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 Post subject: mini
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2005 7:21 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2004 6:39 pm
Posts: 1770
Location: Kaniva / Adelaide / Melbourne
Do you have to modify anything under the wheel arch to fit the larger wheels on?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2005 7:28 pm 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
No, not for 12" wheels. :wink:

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 Post subject: m
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2005 7:49 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Kaniva / Adelaide / Melbourne
Thanks Doc, your knowledge is endless :D


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2005 8:23 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 2:56 pm
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drmini in aust wrote:
No, not for 12" wheels. :wink:


Hey Doc my 12's rubbed like sh!t. Is it as a result of my metro setup or is suspension rooted/sagged?

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2005 8:32 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Mon May 03, 2004 6:46 pm
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Location: ADL
HEYY WHOA!! :shock:

Ok an A+ engine won't go into a Morris subframe without drilling some holes and farting around. This is same with fitting a Rover subframe to a Morris body. You have to drill holes in the body (floor) for the subframe mounts.

As for the front cut VS. plain old engine- with the frontcut you get THE LOT. brakes, loom, lights, engine, all that.
Plus, once you've raped the bits off the rover front, you can sell the bare shell to someone and get a bit of money back 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2005 8:42 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 2:56 pm
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Location: Brisbane
big willy wrote:
Ok an A+ engine won't go into a Morris subframe without drilling some holes and farting around.


My 84 A+ went straight onto a dry suspension subframe. No drilling, no farting.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2005 8:50 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 9:38 am
Posts: 2008
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Two choices...front cut or diy engine kit.
Front cut... everything is there... from indicators to injection, dashboard.When it was cut up it was a running car. with warranty
Engine kit... satisfaction that you know you've looked at the inside of your engine and replaced everything. bit more money as you have to buy everything seperately.
All cars produced after 1984 had 8.4"ap brakes, but a lot of japanese cars seem to have 7.5"ap conversions, making it another option in buying a front cut.
As far as 12" wheels goes and rubbing the guards... it all depends on your suspension setup, the lower you go more rubbing. Also look at your castor angle.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2005 9:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 5:17 pm
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with the metro setup are you useing mini swivle hub or the metro swivle hub they have a different offset makeing the camber diferent
makka

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2005 9:21 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 9:38 am
Posts: 2008
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Either way it's always a good idea to use adjustable castor rods,
to make wheel alignment correct.
I prefer the mini swivel hub, as this is what the car was designed to use and the geometry is correct

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