Hi just wondering what people think of the 2 any advatages disadvantages? personal stories?

I have a 123 on my 1152, and it's easily the best mod I've personally made to the car. The car starts perfectly, idles smoothly (even with a lumpy cam), revs its nuts off and is generally smoother and more powerful throughout the rev range, because the old mechanical Lucas was probably well knackered.

I'm sure you'll get similar stories from others who've fitted electronic dizzies, be they 123, Lucas, Hitachi (Pulsar), etc.

Note that you can achieve exactly the same results with a mechanical distributor, but it won't last because the points and cam will wear.. and you need very specialised equipment to curve the dizzy for your specific engine. The advantage of the 123 specifically is that you can select the most appropriate advance curve for your engine, from 16 available.

My 2c.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

123 all the way baby!!

Very good in all facets, would easily recommend it as the best ignition system for an everyday drive mini.

The ultimate would be a fully mappable system such as weber Alpha, coupled with an 8 port head and fuel injection.....

.....

So for an every day driver, the 123 is THE best.

(yes i have one, had it in now for 18 months, perfect.)

Matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

What the price of a 123 Dizzy.
Never had a Problem with my Pulsar and it has only cost me $100 including new cap and Rotor with all the good thing as per above
1098+.60 RE13 Hiff44 very shaved 202head Wifes Daily and mine for the weekends

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

that sounds like a good idea with the advance curve options. I got a price for a 2nd hand pulsar dizzy and the wanted 100bucks. Plus the cost of getting it regraphed and whatever needs touching up/fixing on the pulsar one. That puts me at around $300.

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WTF? who quoted you $200 to adjust the curve? GR will charge $40 to modify the advance plate. You should be able to find a Pulsar dizzy for less than $100 as well.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

I went to a auto elec here in adelaide. they quoted me $170

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If a 123 responds on START quicker, would it also respond quicker on STOP? (i.e. potentially stop the car from running on if it wants to)

I'm running the factory electronic ignition off a later model Rover, 2 years now and have never had to do anything to it. Car starts first time, no worries.

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One should never skimp on the zip ties.

How late, Ben?

No. I don't think so at least. Running on (Dieseling) is usually caused from fuel continuing to ignite under the compression and heat of the head chambers and timing too far advanced.

Try a higher octane fuel if you're not already and/or get your timing looked at.

Alternatively when you turn it off, put it in gear and let the clutch out with your foot on the brake as you kill the ignition.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

$170 to re graph a pulsar is a rip of..would cost 1/4 the price to post the plate to GR and back again

How much is a 123 dizzy

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

So you've never actually regraphed a distributor - or had one done for your car.

Cheers, Ian

Yes, I agree, there is a big difference between regraphing a dizzy and getting the advance plate welded up to limit total advance.

Anybody regraphed one lately, the Lucas springs are NLA and dizzy machines getting scarcer.
BTW I have actually spun a Pulsar up on a dizzy machine. It reached full advance (15°) at 1900 dizzy rpm (=3800 engine RPM).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.