Hi All,

well i finally got around to removing the engine out of my mini last nigt due to the clutch problem i have.
i had the same problem once before where the flywheel had gone onto the crankshaft so far that it had clamped the primary gear and would not allow the gear to spin giving constant drive to the input of the gearbox.

now this had given even more damage to my crankshaft and flywheel to the point where i will replace my flywheel with a steel ultra light from uk but i also need to find out some info on metal spraying the tail of the crank or if some one has a large journal 1100 "S" crank for sale or swap.

any other advise is also welcomed.

thanks

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Sounds Like you might of had the fly wheel bolt to loose and good luck in finding one As i do not know were to get one from.

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A Bloody Mini

1970 Mini K, 1380cc, 1.75 HIF SU, 30 70 Cam, 2" Zorts
1969 Mini K, Stock Standard and Orginal. (Slow as Hell)

Be careful with the UL steel flywheel, they are a much harder material than stock flywheel and must be a perfect fit on the taper and drive plate & very tight. Any fretting at all will see the f/wheel weld itself to the crank and you will have a hell of a time ever getting it off. Ask me how I know this. If the fretting/welding is real bad, you can forget your new flywheel & crank, as you will have to cut them apart! I won't use a one piece UL steel flywheel and have made a 2 piece UL steel flywheel that uses the std flywheel centre. The std centre is softer than the crank and if I ever have trouble with this, I can replace it. Steve

Yellow devil,

The bolt was tight but may have not been tight enough, i had to use a two foot pipe on the breaker bar to undo it but i guess it could have been tighter, the locating washer tabs broke off and then the flywheel spun so i guess it was not tight enough,

steve

good thought there with the steel flywheel, i had not even thought of that, so you made your own one did you?
do you want to make another?

well if i can get the crank sprayed i will do it andthen fit another flywheel i have a few spare but none as light as this one, but then again being turbo it revs very quick as it is so maybe a little more weight will slow it down a bit and give a little more torque too

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Grant,
I would try another flywheel on to see if it's the crank or flywheel that is worst.
It is possible to counterbore the back of the flywheel deeper by 1.5mm, then take a mm or so off the end of the crank if needed.

I would be wary of metal spraying something like this- its adhesion is not that great.

<edit> after looking at the pics he sent me, it's so badly worn- I doubt this will work.
Could perhaps be laser, plasma or TIG welded? It's EN16, I think.

Otherwise... looks to me like another crank.....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Grant, once you get your crank sorted, a compromise between stock flywheel and what I have done is to lighten a std f/wheel, choose an early 2 piece one, face .200" off the surface (& make up .200" spacers) and drill a series of holes between the clutch running face and the ring gear. This is as good as any. Have it crack tested before you start. Also KAD (& others) do a hardened drive washer, well worth the money. It sounds like it was tight enough but the drive washer failed.

If you're interested in having one made, PM me. Kev may still have a pic of the one I have, I sent him a pic a little while ago. Steve

Here 'tis...
If you want one modded as justminis suggests, Graham Russell can do it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Please note this flywheel was made from high grade STEEL, please do not lighten a factory flywheel like this! Remember, the flywheel is spinning under your feet! Steve

Is there some sort of magic combination of cam profile and lightened flywheel (weight off - that is) which you can say is the limit for say lumpiness at the lights rather than having to constantly heel and toe (blipping the throttle) to keep the damn thing going?

Tell me if this is this a stupid question!!

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I have no idea if there is a combination or what it might be, don't let it idle, run it higher, remember high lift or race cams are designed to idle (or run slow), slow running increases dramatically the cam nose pressures, and hence wear. Steve

Mick, for a road car, even if you lighten stock flywheel etc to the max shown in Vizard's HTMYM book, it's still heavy by race flywheel standards.

As Steve said, don't idle it too slow you will scuff the lobes out.
Mine idles around 1100-1200 with RE-13 cam & 1.5 rockers.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hmmm so the bonus with an RE13/1.5:1 rockers is the "anti-stall" feature at the lights!

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"Show me the Mini!"