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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 8:41 pm 
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Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
Hi Dan,

Yes, had to use that a couple of times in my career - and it does apply here. Under Tort, by the mere fact that he has started my car, he is admitting that some sort of agreement has taken place and that he is legally bound by said agreement.

In QLD we have the Security Payment Act 2000, which is basically the same as in your state. Under the Act, he has 14 days to pay in full the invoice or then it goes before tribunal. If he disputes the invoice, it then goes before arbitration or the Industrial Relations Commisson.

I was involved in a dispute at one time on a job where I was PM, and the main electrical contractor got in subbies to do some work and didnt pay them. It went before court, and after hearing both opening arguments, the judge asked one question, and one question only "Has the work been done", to which the defendent said yes. The judge simply said "Pay the man, you have 7 days" and 'bang' went down the gavel "Case closed, next" said the judge.

I will however, as all good PM's should do, talk softly but write hard! I shall feel him out in the next couple of days - he has had staff issues and all that, but in reality, not my concern!

Thanks for the advice.
Tricky

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 9:00 pm 
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Kick him in the nuts. That generally works.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 9:04 pm 
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JC wrote:
Kick him in the nuts. That generally works.
Remember the nutcracker scene (or was it a pair of pliers) from the Silver Streak. That looked like it was very effective.

Dicko.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 9:26 pm 
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This space for rent
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JC wrote:
Kick him in the nuts. That generally works.


I likes the way ye thinks.

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The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 9:55 pm 
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Location: kallangur qld--- boot_it mechanical
JC wrote:
Kick him in the nuts. That generally works.


play the woosh-am-bow-u game and u start first :lol:

but to archange007l great work with the mini

pitty about the pannel beaters screwin u over im but i feel that 95% of pannel beaters/spray painters seem to like screwin people over (as im a quallified mechanic/fabricator) and i used to deal with a fair few of them and they were always givin febal excuess

prime example i did a rb26dett install in to a s13 silvia and i did the conversion in 3mths only workin on it on weekends and it went to a well known pannel shop (this was in aug-06) and he just got the car back in oct-07

so i know how u feel just give him the squeeze and hope he pops and gets to work on it for u


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 11:30 pm 
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arguably one of the toughest busines's/trades to be in

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Mearcat wrote:
Sheesh! As entertaining as this may be to some, can one of the mods throw a big bucket of cold water on this and please shut this sh!t fight down


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 4:57 pm 
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Tricky,

Taking a few steps back ...

I just read back over you frame & engine bay build and noticed that you've mounted the brake booster above the gearbox - in the RHS of the engine bay.

I was always under impression that the booster had to be mounted on the firewall directly behind the master cylinder and, along with the master cylinder, and directly connected with the brake pedal.

But am right in assuming that the Starlet GT uses a remote type which is connected to the master cylinder?

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I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


Last edited by Mearcat on Mon Nov 19, 2007 9:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:16 pm 
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Hi Mearcat,

Integral master cylinder/booster arrangements (as in the Starlet) have the booster diaphram acting directly on the master cylinder itself. Its compact and functional. All modern cars have this arrangement.

We dont have that luxury, because of how our pedal box mounts and a whole lot of other factors. Instead, we use a VH44 remote booster, made by PBR. So in effect, I cant use the Starlet master cylinder/booster unit.

Being remote, it literally can be mounted almost anywhere. It simply reduces the brake pedal effort required to activate the brakes, by 'boosting' the line pressure from the master cyinder.

Cheers,
Tricky

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 8:07 pm 
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Hi Folks,

Just a quickie :shock:

Just picked up my last set of speakers today, the 5.25" coaxials that go in the rear parcel shelf. And of course, yes, they are Fusion. Like I was saying before, they are all the same brand and same series (Fusion PowerPlant) so they should all be tonally matched.

This what they looked like in the box (nice big tweeter so should add some reasonable treble to the rear of the car):
Image

Couldnt resist having a play, here they are mounted in the rear parel shelf board:
Image

Close up:
Image

They dont look too bad. So I decided to test fit them in the Purple Monster (the mule) and see how they looked. This was the result:
Image

Image

What do you all think? Personally, I think I should have tilted them forward 15 or 20 degrees or so as they dont tie in seamlessly with the pods and continue that linear line of the pods. Comments!

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 8:15 pm 
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Location: Toowoomba Region, QLD
I know what you mean about tilting them but I still think they look good. Everyone is still going to get an eye full of all the speakers running down the centre of the seat anyway.

I can't wait to see it all together!

Tricky, I know why you really went for fusion speakers (and it's not because they just look good), it's because they have really hot chicks on their stands at all the car shows :) :lol:

Can't wait to see the cat all put together and finished.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 9:08 pm 
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Good work. :D

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 11:03 pm 
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they look great but as you said maybe a bit mor tilt next time.

just a short question, would a fibreglass panel work as well as the mdf for holding the speakers? or could you maybe smoothe out that edge with it? just an idea

awesome build by the way

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 11:03 pm 
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Archangel007 wrote:
What do you all think? Personally, I think I should have tilted them forward 15 or 20 degrees or so as they dont tie in seamlessly with the pods and continue that linear line of the pods. Comments!


Use a router to rebate the driver flush with the pods then create your own grill covered with black speaker cloth? Stealthy and sexy at the same time.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 2:50 pm 
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If you were going to run with a similar design id definatly tilt them next time...
Looks awesome though

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 10:08 am 
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EAB,

I used the MDF as it was a solid substrate.

But, you could now use that as a plug, make a mould out of it, and then take a moulding off that.

As long as you laid up at least 4 layers of chopped strand matt, and at least one or two of biaxial or triaxial cloth, it would be just fine!

And it would look da bomb too!

Cheers,
Tricky

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