Got the roadworthy for the express today.

All sweet minus a number plate light globe thta i forgot about and rubbers for the Pedals!!! ... gotta love that...

BUT no can give without an engineers certificate because the engine is an 1100 and the car is an 850.

F(*(^%#ers!

I rang one engineer: $800 and brakes should be ok as is (twin leading shoe)
Another was $350 and upgrade brakes tto different master cylinder PLUS put seatbelts in back and must have heater with windscreen demister!!!

Now VIC ROADS tell me (the guy there was great) that because the car was made in 1964 I DO NOT NEED TO HAVE SEATBELTS IN THE BACK!!!

Pre Aust Design Rules and all that...

WHAT THE????

Does anyone know of an engineer that might be a good one to go to (nothing dodgy and no trying to cut corners but one that is familliar with classic mini's) in the Melbourne area - PM me (no need to go plastering names here)

Also has anyone had these same issues and what was the outcome...


Just need to say it one more time..."F(**&%*)ers"

Cheers, Bryan

_________________

1964 Morris 850 and some!!

This stuff makes my blood boil. You don't need an engineers certificate. Whoever told you that is a clown. The same bodyshell was used with an 1100 engine (Mini K) so you are just upgrading to an OPTIONAL engine. It's like putting a 308 in a holden that used to have a 253.

I'd suggest you find another RWC guy.

_________________
Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Exactly right.

There were no structural changes or alterations in the design to cope with the larger engine, and there were no safety upgrades in terms of equipment or design of the passenger compartment.

Take bnicho's advice.

_________________
"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

PM sent.

_________________
Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

If u ended up fitting belts in the back you would then need an engineers certificate to approve the fitment of rear belts.... Wat tossers.....

_________________

http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Not just that, but fitting belts to the rear of an early shell is not a trivial exercise. In later shells, to support the loads introduced by the seat belts the rear parcel shelf was a structural member, where the early ones are not -- there's an air gap between it and the metal under the window. Putting belt anchors in there is a recipe for disaster.. same goes for putting inertia reels in the rear bins for front seat occupants.

The RWC guy here just didn't know his crap -- I had a very similar experience a couple of weeks ago, and my solution was to chalk the cost of the inspection up as a lesson learned, and go see a Mini specialist like I should have done in the first place.

Tricky and Brett are absolutely spot on, there's no reason to fail the car on the basis of the larger engine. About the only upgrade I can think an 850 shell would need is double-leading front shoes and an extra top engine steady bar, but those appear to have been done in this case.

_________________
Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Top steady bar never came in before 1973 or so when the rodchange box was introduced.
1098 Mini-K never got one. Didn't need it, it had the remote box.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

After all the bullshit I have had with people that doent understand Mini/Mokes I am never taking it to anybody but a mini person for my inspections.

Just go to somebody that talks mini and you should be fine - bloody ludites

I have heard a lot of these stories. How about a Holden dealer that was going to fail an EH for not having any seat belts.

850s never had a rear demister or come to think of it a heater

True, but if you do fit a 1098 with rod-change box to an early shell you need that second steady bar, otherwise you do what I did and tear the driver's side one out of the firewall

Remote housing rocks, but I've only ever had one

_________________
Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Go see a mini specialist. Your car is spotless, no reason to fail RWC. It would be much cost efficient to repay for a RWC the an engeneer certificate. Give me the S#$% when you do thing by the book, and the guy who are suppose to know the book can't read.

Mini specialist, $60, no hassle....my point of view

_________________

absolutely.... go to Link or Pistons Auto and get a roadworthy there.... your car is fine as is, no need for belts, no need for engineers approval

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Just so you guys know............(incase you didnt )...............................
'pistons" no longer do mini stuff.........and "minis plus" to the best of my knowledge has moved and are not doing any workshop stuff.....but give him a call to find out first.....................

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

Pistons now only doing mail order. Can get all the bit's and pieces as per usual but thats it. Suggest you use another RWC Tester. If you have anymore issues when you call Vic Roads ask for the Road Safety section and they should be able to help you out. As everyone has said you won't need an Engineers Certificate. No heater or demister or seatbelts required. Only time there can be an issue with the brakes is that they come off another vehicle and are installed into something else. That according to Vic Roads is a touchy subject.

_________________
(\_/)
(O.o) <CoPy> <) MaY oBtAiN wOrLd DoMiNaTiOn.