I automatically check my oil pressure gauge every time i start the car. My process usually involves pulling out the choke, starting her up and using the tacho to keep her at the right spot, glancing at the temp gauge until she's warm enough, popping the choke back in, check the oil pressure and then off I go.

I also glance across every now and again while i'm driving just to make sure everything is good. I drive with the sound of the engine anyway (can't stand the radio) so i know immediately when something is wrong.

Turbos need oil, so there is a feed pipe to them off the main oil supply with a restrictor jet in it.
This drops your pressure a bit particularly at idle.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I prefer to have both a light and a guage, I fit a higher pressure light switch as well. The normal light switch comes on at bugger all pressure (about 3-5 psi) get one that comes on at around 15-20psi.

When you are driving down the freeway on a long trip how often do you check the guage? Not very often. When you are watching the speedo, the mirrors, the other idiots, etc. you can easily miss a fall in oil pressure. With a light that comes on early you can look at the guage before it hits the bottom.

im guessing that because you are not worried about your bearings the oil is pumped and services the bearing first and then the turbo, where are you feed lines coming from,

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any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717

Hey mate, not sure I entirely understand the question.
I am certainly worried about bearings (thats why I shut it off ASAP)

The oil feed comes from the front of the engine where the oil light normally goes...

Have a look at http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... 196#473196

There are pics that you can see the stainless braided line coming into the top of the turbo.

Return goes down and around the back into where the fuel pump normally lives.

Peter.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

1, 2, 3, 4...

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i had this idea for conveniece you would have it go from the oil output(steel pipe that goes to oil filter), to the turbo back towards the engine maybe via an oil cooler and back in through the oil filter,

in the pics it doesn't show how it returns to the engine

oh by the way, gauges , install them and watch them

_________________
any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717

I think the Metro Turbo motors had a larger volume pump for this reason. I'm not 100% sure on this, so I'll check it up.

<edit> Yerp Turbo motors sure do have a higher capacity oil pump. And still available apparantly for A+ engines. I think if anyone is going turbo, they really should look into this, it sounds important.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

i remember reading the gregorys manual and it said at normal speed and operating temperature it should be at 60psi and at idle and normal operating temperature it should be at 15psi. seems a little low but i guess its just a guide?

Yeah I've found the book values for oil pressures to be a tad low, however, does it say which model? Eg. The Cooper S has a better oil pump than an 850 etc.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Yeh, It's amazing how many people don't keep an eye on their guages, one of the couriers in our fleet didn't notice his temp going up !, so instead of a $30 heater hose , it cost him $9500 for a new motor for his van...... . A near tradegy averted, well done Chris.

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May the fork be with you.

And just think, a warning light with a buzzer would only cost a small amount to fit.
When you split a hose the water will disappear before the temperature gets hot. The temperature sender works by measuring the water temperature. If there is no water it will only be measuring air. On some vehicles the guage will look fine or just a little hot when there is no water.

Thats good to hear no damage was caused mate. I had a vacuum gauge and oil pressure and volt metre installed into the LS and I can tell you it was more then valuable on several occasions. particularly the oil pressure gauge for teh same reason you had a scare with.

Glad to hear that a new hose and new oil were the only expenditure you had to fix the problem.

So now you need a gauge, warning light and a buzzer to notify you that your water temp is rising.
Heres an idea......


Buy an old Volkswagon !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Morris 850 had a steam indicator. When you saw the plume rising from under the bonnet you knew it was too hot.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.