I just found out that the reason that snoball is veering left after all is not suspension, bushes or alignment, its because the diff center pin is busted!!!, first signs were that it would jerk a bit when applying throttle or backing off. just letting you guys know so it doesnt cause any serious damage to your gearbox!!!!!!!

I got it early enuf that it hasnt collapsed yet, so all i need is to fix it now and all is fine!!!!

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68' Morris, 1100,

Willson Automotive
Tasmania's ONLY mini Specialists
(03) 62725056

http://photobucket.com/albums/a323/the_white_one/

It's cool mate...you're in Tassie...too far from Sydney to damage my gearbox

Bahahahaha... yeah, me too. I think Melbourne is far enough to be out of danger.

hmm mine is very jerky on/off throttle

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1152cc turbo A-series now with 125.7hp at the wheels !

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Benjamin,
If it just thumps without changing direction it could be your splines are getting worn and / or worn bushes in the diff housing side covers where your drive shafts exit and / or rubber universals if you have that type. Get underneath and grapple the drive shafts and shake them all about.....

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Over 1,000,000Km, but now my retirement restoration project

If it thumps when you jump on or jump off the throttle, it often means that the rubber bushes on the engine steady(s) are nackered.

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Ok so does this relate to my K veering a small amount when I accelerate, decelerate?
I have driven a Moke for a while, but never noticed this, now I seem to notice it all the time!
Not drastic, just smooth passive veering. but when I cruize along, it runs straight.

Cheerio.

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Cool stuff!!

Torque steer? Is it normal? I've got it a bit too.

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)

I don't think so unless under full power in 1st gear- I don't get it just powering on/off, in either the 1360 or the 1293.
I'd be looking at the front tiebar rubbers first, then check for any slack in the steering or balljoints, also check all the subframe mounting bolts are tight.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cheers dr.
I do get a bit under power, but not that noticeable under deceleration. All rubbers are new, (except for those top arm rebound rubbers which I'm doing next week), new tie rod ends, hubs, bearings, ball joints were checked etc etc. I do think though that I have some steering rack wear, although the steering is very precise and "firm". Bit of a rattle through the steering sometimes, but not all the time. Will check those subframe bolts next week as well.
As advised in an earlier post, these might also be contributing to the clunk I sometimes get on initial acceleration (uphill mostly).
Cheers again!

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)

So how did it go up Penguin

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"Show me the Mini!"

A worn out rack bush will give a bit of torquesteer feeling.... particularly when LF wheel is going over bumps or ripples.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The term torque steer is commonly misused I find. Torque steer, from what I understand is due to unequal length driveshafts on a FWD (like Mini). Such that under heavy torque one bends (the longer one due to more leverage?) causing the car to pull to one side. Of course generally speaking a Mini does not have nearly enough grunt to do this.

I once thought I had "torque steer" and looked it up on wikipedia out of interest, I didn't have it. My car would move towards the centre of the road under acceleration and move back when you backed off. It turns out I had a loose bolt on the steering arm with attachs to the brake casuing the car to behace in this fashion.

As Doc says check all that stuff and maybe take the car to a steering/suspension place to help you suss it out. Or jack the car up and see if you can move the wheel left and right, it should be solid.

<edit> went on wikipedia....

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

My Minis all suffer from a small amount of torque steer if I take my hands off the wheel while accelerating. I get around this by holding the steering wheel when I am driving, easy. If it torque steers while you are holding the steering wheel then something is loose somewhere.

Pete

I tend to hold the steering wheel when I'm driving too........

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)