1071 crank, even more rare!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

they remake 1275s, don't they...

someone would make a bucket load flogging the 1071s..

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You can still buy new 1071S cranks (cut from EN40B billets) but why give away 200cc in a road car...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Sounds like Blake should take a trip up the highway and visit Pete and Ben (the flowerpot men??) before making his decision

BTW whoever said three bearings don't rev is wrong....as has been said before here its all about how square or well put together the engine is...for example, the early three bearing B Series rev harder than the later 5 bearings...lower friction losses etc

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"Show me the Mini!"

You may have a different opinion when you start going all out. I think A-series motors are tough. I've revved mine right out, and it's been happy to do that.

And the supercharged motor ain't slow. It made an easy 75hp atws at 4900rpm - with ignition issues and spark time issues! Easy 100+hp at the flywheel and it's quick. And has loads of bottom end torque so there's really no need to rev it out to get going fast.

All good, seems so. Until your gearbox and drop gears decide enough is enough. They are very old technology and not designed to take our punishment. I always wondered why the Brit's spend silly money of gearboxes when they boost a car. Now I finally know - from personal experience.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

I didn't say they wouldnt/dont rev.. I said they don't like it A crank with 5 mains will typically hold together longer at high revs than one with less. Even GR says how much an A-series crank moves around at high revs...

Don't get me wrong, the A-series IMO is a tough little unit ( maybe not as reliable as newer engine ) and like you say, with any engine it's all about how you put it together

5 bearing B series motors on the track break just as many cranks as 3 bearing ones do. So says GR.
The extra bearings `might' give you longer life in a road car, or maybe smoother running, but he says any B series doing over 7000 for long is an invitation to go BANG.

Someone once said that engine mods which give you more power in an A series, just give more noise in a B series...
I'm not dissing B engines really, they are a fine road motor.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I don't know if it's just me but I feel a little safer knowing there's an extra two bearings stopping my crank from wandering

I guess that's what it comes down to -- know your engines limitations, or maybe your wallets!

Well i want to be not an everyday car but not a weekender. Im looking at doing everything besides the rebuild myself. Is there anyone in or around canberra with a turbod 1100 and where is the best place to get a turbo from? Also just to make sure im not getting the wrong thing a T3 is the way 2 go or should i be looking at a T2 or T04? Im going to try and get one in the next few weeks and start making up piping etc. for it.

stick with a tame or stock camshaft or it will be horrible to drive in traffic.

General Concensus is that a T3 is too big for a Metro Turbo, according to many people on Turbominis.co.uk. And the Metro Turbo motor is a 1275.

And as Spaceboy says, stick with a sedate cam. I love my stock cammed, blown engine. Tons of power, tons of torque plus a calm idle and power right from the get go. But will lose out in max power.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

There are a couple of options though.
If you run about 9:1 or 9.5:1 compression, an RE13T cam (like mine and Bens) it will be VERY smooth idle and very smooth off boost... its like a nice little stock mini (sort of)
Then when she spools up, whoa!

There are many types of cam profiles... the RE13 (non-turbo) is quite lumpy... but RE13T (turbo version is not) -- Speaking from experience here, not theory.

T3 might be too big, we are running Hi Flowed T2's. They are fairly cheap too... can get on many car forums or ebay... just keep your eye out for them.

I dont know about getting it rebuilt in Canberra, but driving to Sydney isnt that far and would be worth your while to get Graham to build it. Call him and check, not sure if he is taking anymore work before the new year though (very busy man)

Like 9YaTaH said, let me know if your down in Sydney, happy to talk Minis and turbo's for hours

Pete

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

thanks pete uve been helpful. With doing your turbo over the clutch is it really hard? Im jst thinkin if id b able 2 do it myself. Ive wrkd with steel 4 the last few years n can weld so the piping is no problem but is there any technical bits? N is there a guide or something i can go off?

If you have money and lack time or skills give a look in to 'Mirage Manifolds'. They are designed to fit behind the engine, but clear the firewall such that no firewall mods are necessary (Stock Metro Turbo unit will require firewall mods).

Quite a few people use them in UK and make huge HP figures. However the big figures might be to do with using 1380's and large boost rather than the manifolds themselves.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Hi Mate,

I cant take credit for the manifolds, Ben made them... brilliantly I might add!
There is no guide sorry, but ask as many questions as you want mate.

Get onto TurboMinis.co.uk and start reading (but carefully, those UK fella's have some strange ideas)

If you can make the manifold and dump pipe you are ok, its just really really tight fit. I had to extend my top engine steadies by about 1inch by the way.

You need:
Turbocharger
Intake Manifold
Carby
Plenum
Gaskets, etc
Electric Fuel pump and regulator
Silicone joiners
Air filter for turbo
If you go an intercooler, you need that and the piping

Obviously, you need the motor to handle boost. A newly built motor, lower compression (8.5:1 or so - depending on boost) will be fine... rebuild the gearbox too!!

You will need hoses and clamps for things, might need to upgrade your cooling system too - but maybe not

Not a cheap excersize

Pete

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!