Hi guise

Me and MR V have decided that we are going to modify my SU.
I understand the slimming down the butterfly + nuts + shaft thing. I am just a little fuzzy on the SU body mods.

Its my thinking that I have to basically blend in all the shapes down the throat of the carby. I have attached a whole bunch of photos and I have highlighted where I am going to direct the fury of my die grinder.

If I am incorrect I would appreciate it if someone stopped me

I have a whole box of broken ones to play with / pinch parts off need be.
(the one pictured is a scrapper)





thanks

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You have been reading Vizards books...?? I did the same thing to my twin 1 1/4. Dont touch your butterfly. No matter how careful you are it will suck excess air past it and idle high. I had to replace both of mine after i knife edged em.

I shaved down the throttle shafts and screws though. I had to richen the mixture up after i did all this. Plus i added stub stacks as well.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Graham Russell spoke at a mini forum a year or two back. He detailed how he spent hours and hours shaping it and flowing it.

He then stuck it on a motor to dyno it and the notate the results. It made absolutely no difference - no gains in torque or HP.

He then went on to talk about the HIF44 and how he had it on a 988 with a bit of a head and an RE13 and the motor had the HIF fully open sucking all it could get. It was properly needled of course.

Have fun for the sake of experience but if you asked Graham he would just say dont bother.

Graham just modded mine, he put a big radius on the inlet entry. That's all it needs...
I'd forget all this thinning of throttle shafts etc it's a waste of time.
I went through this 30 years ago....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

This is just one of the many areas where Vizard is just plain wrong!
SU made those sharp edges for a reason and removing them will add nothing and take a little bit away at certain points.
Like Doc says just add a radius on the inlet.

I have a seal kit nd stuff, so I will just put that in and add a big radius to the entry.

one thing,
would it be ok to push the piston all the way up and make sure none of the pistons in th............................................. ahh forget it

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Hey Doc, whats ur opinion of these stub stacks i fitted? Just WANK factor?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I think they would work.

Nicer than mine but do the same thing.
I hope you have a big enough hole in the filter backplate... or it's a waste of time!
Mine are way simpler...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Same here, forget the mods, radius is all you need.
I didnt have mine modded, was all good, then I added the stack (old school stock filter one which has the radius on it) and was even better.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

if i radius the entry and just make the whole in the back plate bigger I wont need stub stacks?

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Where can I buy a stub stack like DrMinis or Hanras for my HIF44?

Just Pm Drmini (Kev)

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Mine came from the States. I think Kev can make em up though!

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

hi guise

I just had a look at the "good" carby I am using and it seems to have a backplate with a nice radius already, or is this back plate no good or something?

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