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 Post subject: Cooper S tappets
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 5:11 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 7:26 am
Posts: 900
Location: Christchurch New Zealand
Hi guys,
Does anyone know what method of valve adjustment works best with an RE13 cam? I've tried one valve at a time, as per the BMC book but the tappets were quite noisy, so I did them in firing order, one cylinder at a time and got a much quieter result and finding a number were a little loose after doing them the first time the BMC way. I'm setting them at .017" as GR recommends.

Regards
Al


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 6:11 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39756
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I do them the way GR recommends, the rule of 9 (modified).
eg when #1 valve is wide open adjust #8, etc. This puts the one being adjusted right in the middle of the cam lobe's base circle.

`modified' means when #8 (exhaust) is open, you will find #6 (inlet) is near open too. Just rock the engine slightly until both are 95% open, then adjust both. :wink: Repeat for the others. This way you only have to move the crank round 4 times, not 8.

You will find most good sports cams including RE13 are slightly noisier than stock cams, this is because initial valve acceleration is faster- which increases performance. You can't have everything-

BTW my RE282 cam runs .022/.024" (recommended) clearance with 1.5 forged rockers, and yes I can hear them- just.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 5:07 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 7:26 am
Posts: 900
Location: Christchurch New Zealand
Thanks Dr Mini,
As you suggest is the way I have been doing them but I have noticed that there are a couple that remain quite noisy. If I do them by getting the opposite cylinder rocking, I find I can tighten them a little and the engine sounds sweet and there is no notable decrease in power. The fact that I am tightening them makes me wonder if by doing it your way, I am not completely on the back of the cam lobe. I suppose it's up to me to make the choice but I do appreciate your thoughts and help.

Regards and thanks
Al


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 5:30 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2005 1:03 pm
Posts: 1540
Location: Napier, NZ
Are you doing them hot or cold?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 5:38 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 7:26 am
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Location: Christchurch New Zealand
I'm doing them cold, dead cold.

Al


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 5:57 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Check that your rocker bushes & shaft are not worn. If they are, you get funny results when setting.

BTW, I found S forged rockers are the worst of the lot for rocker ratio & valve lift- even worse than those crap late model A+ sintered ones.. :lol:

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 7:07 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 7:26 am
Posts: 900
Location: Christchurch New Zealand
drmini in aust wrote:
Check that your rocker bushes & shaft are not worn. If they are, you get funny results when setting.

BTW, I found S forged rockers are the worst of the lot for rocker ratio & valve lift- even worse than those crap late model A+ sintered ones.. :lol:


The rocker bushes and shaft and valves and guides have only done 5,000 miles and the rockers were faced, so everything is like new. The rockers are forged S ones and I checked to see that nothing had picked up and made a rocker loose. I did the initial set-up as GR suggested, with a dial gauge onto each valve but they were close enough that I could do them as per your suggested method, so all is well there.

Regards
Al


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