Nearly getting there, just finished rebuilding and painting front hubs, calipers and disc shields.

Is it easiest to put the driveshafts into CV's out of the car? Ie. fit CV's, fit driveshaft and then fit engine? Or is this the hard way, should I go in another direction?

I put the whole thing together first- CV, shaft, pot joint.
Depends how old the car's front subframe is whether you can fit the swivel hubs off the car too..
Unless it's post 1974? you will find the pot joint doesn't fit through the subframe.
You can still fit the assembled shaft, but put the CV end through subby first- ie fit the shafts in from under the car, fit pot joints into box, then assemble the swivel hubs later..
I find it less messy than assembling the pot joints on the car.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Would a '77 998LS have Pot joints? From memory thats what they look like. Are they all interchangeable between gb's? Ie will '77 Pot joins fit my 68?? remote box?? Can i just pull the whole driveshafts from the 77 box and fit my new disc cv's and away we go?

With any luck I'll 'massage' the inner guard so I can fit the brake regulator onto the cross member corner bracket and have all brakes and front end suspension done this weekend.

Hey, does that mean I might not have the original front subframe in my 1970 K? I've got pot joints, and they fit thru the subby easy..

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

yeppo - no doubt you've got dry suspension too - someone put clubman bits to good use

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Nope, 'tis wet.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

well that's a bit odd then... because hydro bags won't go into a dry subframe... no way no how

maybe someone attacked it with a die grinder

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

The ports thru the subframe for the drive shafts look pretty untouched.. no sign of any mods being made there. I do suspect that the car has had a sizable hit up front sometime in its life though, because it took a good 4 degrees difference in caster side to side to get it pointing straight.. maybe the subby was changed out.

Minor mystery...

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

So can anyone answer my gearbox q??

what was the question?

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

The remote change boxes never had pot joints. Only the rod change boxes. a '77 would definitely have them.

As to whether you could fit them, it's feasible if you change the diff and flanges but I don't know for sure that's why I didn't answer originally. Someone here must know?

Pete

OK, I understand the question, but don't know the answer........
That always happened to me in exams at school

Seriously - To convert remote box (ie diff) to accept pot joints, yes you will need to change the diff output shafts, but not the flanges. Remote shafts are threaded at the end to accept rubber or hardly-splicer universals. Pot joints require the ones with the circlip. You simply belt the pot joints on with a hammer, but not by using a drift inside them as you will probably dislodge the metal plug inside, and as Dr Mini previously advised me, that's how the oil can then leakout of the diff
Then you can fit your u-beaut drive shafts and whatever CV's tickle your fancy ie the drum or disc type. The only drama is holding all your balls (!) whilst inserting the d/shaft thru the sub frame appeture into the pot joint. It is good to have a helper, but not impossible to do it yourself as long as your not trying to assemble the drive shaft & hub assembly as a complete unit.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

OK, i think that answers it, rubber uni's or whatever it is! I cbf stuffing around to change them over.

Next question, as I have multitudes of driveshafts lying around, how do I know which ones I need. Are they all the same length? Or is rh/lh different. Pictures??

I would just like to point out that the change to inner pot joints and the change to the rod-change box were not done at the same time.
From memory they changed to pot joints before the rod-change box came in.
Did the last Hydro cars have pot-joints?

My '70 K has hydro, rod change and pot joints, but it's not the original engine.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges