I'm running EBC Blackstuffs (Street Kevlar) in my S brakes on the road. Good road pads, but not for the track..
So I took the old EBC Greenstuffs to work and cleaned the dust etc off on the linisher (FB belt sander) so I can put 'em back in for the track day.
Lots of nice copper metal in there- I can see it now!
Question-
These things are down to 5mm pad material thickness. Should I refit them, or bung the new ones in? I'm sure they will last the distance- what I'm really asking is- would new pads stop any better than these?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i would buy new ones, stick the old ones in, if there crap, swap them between runs.

Cheers

Aaron

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Good call. I've already got a new set in stock, of course..

<edit> revised p/no shown below. Sorry if people went for the 2101s, correct pad # for Cooper S Greenstuffs is DP2102...

http://www.autospeed.com/cgi-bin/browse ... 1003600319

<edit> price shown is + delivery, $7 I think.
They are dearer from brake shops..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i dont think new pads will brake any better

1. the thing that squeezes the pad down is self adjusting, it retains fluid in it, so it doesnt matter if youve got 10mm or 1mm worth of pad, theres still that contact of pad to disc when you lift your foot

2. wouldnt more pad material make it more spongy than with less, if you look at things pedantically?

3. 5mm is plenty

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

I would have thought that being a Kevlar/Copper based pad, the heat transfer to the piston / fluid would be more with thin pads as opposed to new ones....

I'm assuming the heat transfer of The Kevlar here, not the copper content as well .....

Just a thought. . . .
J

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The Green paint on the back of these pads is LONG GONE.. so they do get friggin' HOT!
OTOH, James, wouldn't that give me a spongy pedal due to boiling fluid? It doesn't happen..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'll be very interested to hear the results Doc. I have not considered track pads for the basher yet, i can't get enough speed out of it yet but the new (rebuilt) 1098 should help with that

personally i would think 5mm is plenty, but i have not run at WP. at OP i was only braking at 3 points on the track, and that hardly put a dent in the Bendix metal pads i have on the basher.

As far as heat transfer goes, kevlar is a fantastic insulator, whereas the copper is at the opposite end of thespectrum being a fantastic conductor. You can't beat a couple of ducts (read 3 or 4 inch hose) to direct air at the brakes to help with cooling. But the green stuffs would no doubt need a fair amount of heat to work properly right?

michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

Cooling is not a problem- with `Mini offset' Contessas they get plenty of breeze as is!

Mick, I've run Bendix pads (blue box, can't remember name) on it at Wakefield, also Ferodo Premiums (UK), but Greenstuffs are the best I've tried.

Yeah I know racers reckon carbon metallics are the duck's guts, but not at $250/set, for a non-racer.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

5mm is getting low, remember that when the pistons are out they can rock a little more and stick a little.

Bendix Ultimate is what I was using on my HQ Holden. They were great. No probs pulling up 1365kg from 125mph at Bathurst.

It still ain't gonna help you doc

lol, seriously though will be interesting, should i change mine for the bendix i have sitting here when we go down?

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Josh, those 9.1" Honda monsters won't even get warm! Do what I am, take 'em with you.
Check your old ones first, of course.

M1100, The pistons/seals are new and the pads are dead flat again now, so I think worth a try.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you want the real good quality pads, like the ones in the V8 stupidcars...http://www.bsmsport.com.au/store/page.inetstore?id=21 bargain!

Mate I pay less for cars!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Unfortunately, from memory Bendix or Ferodo no longer make 'race' compounds for the mini. No Ultimate or Formula 5000's....dont even bother trying with Advance or Excels(which are their everyday street cmpounds)....youll get brake fade after a couple of laps...they are simply not gonna be able to stand the heat!

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[Maverick] 1971 Mini K

Yeah it was Excels I ran first at wakefield. They were better than I expected but were very S/H by the time I got home!
I find EBCs good- they don't seem to wear my discs or make much dust, either.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.