Removed the front subframe from the deluxe and pulled out one hydro displacer. When cleaning it up part of the metal collar came away.



Is it worth putting back in? I am guessing the other side is the same.
Was holding pressure before being removed. If it is stuffed then I would like to hear from people who may have some to sell.

thanks

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

It is not good! But you can repair them.

Take a look at the section on repairing hydro hoses at http://members.tripod.com/austin_america/id63.html

Carefully cut that hose of...Go and buy a 1/8 BSP HEX nut DIE....You will see that you can cut a thread on the outside of where the hose was....Then get a 1/8 BSP long brass nut...its pretty long and screw it on with loctite 577 gas thread sealer....Then go to a place that sells what the call REUSABLE hydrolic fittings ,,make you hose to what ever length you need...When doing up the reuseables do them up tight and back them of half a turn....Ive done this on my car...no problems whatsoever...Cheers

The front displacers suffer from a buildup of water in the top, exactly where it can rust away the crimp ring holding the hose onto the tube.

I had one let go on the left front of my Deluxe a few years ago and it was scary and spectacular, all at the same time. You're lucky that there appears to be enough of the crimp left to stop the hose running away, venting fluid all over the engine bay and crying out "FREE! FREE AT LAST!". Sorry, I let my imagination run away a bit then too!

I did a bit of research at the time and was unable to find any of the hose repair places who could re-crimp the hose. The reason for this is that the collar around the top prevents them getting in there with the crimper, and no-one had a right angled one.

I like the idea of threading the remainder and screwing in a fitting. My only reservation would be if any of the swarf got into the bag it could hasten decay, but if you tapped it upside down that may not happen.

I was able to obtain a pair of good displacers as replacements, and before fitting them I drilled a few holes around the collar down next to the rubber so water would drain away rather than build up.

They're still working, so something must be right!

Cheers, Pottsy

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Smile Up at The Trucks!

The thread that is cut explained above is on the outside ...not the inside..no swarf problems at all...The other website in the link does the thread cutting on the inside,,,on the tit where te hose goes...NO NEED...at all.....The beuaty about the thread on the outside is when you put the long BSP brass fitting on it strengthens the hole thing...Cheers

??????? right I think I understand

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

Sounds like a good mod, I'm going to do the 4 of mine going in the 1412 VAN.

I already have a 1/8 BSP dienut...

<edit> you could probably even use 500psi hose and barb fittings (hydraulic return line) as working pressure is only ~300psi.
I use them for oil cooler lines, they never leak.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just thought i'd add that the die is 1/8 BSPF not BSP as stated before....If you need any help to understand send me a P.M and i'll help you out..Its quite easy really...The Hex nut die fits into a socket..not the type with handles...Cheers

[img][img]http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/suffolk_photos/100_0378.jpg[/img] This is what i used...[/img]

Thanks suffolk for your help. Just to check a few things if I could.

1. Remove broken collar from hose and take hose off.
2. Die the internal bit (that was inside the hose) to 1/8 BSPF
3.Attach 1/8 nut to new thread.
4. Attach hydrolic fitting (how does it connect to the nut?)

I am guessing you use the original hose so that you do not have to purchase connections on the engine bay end.

I hope that the base bit that goes into the bag itself is not too corroded or else it will break down there

thanks for your help

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

bewdy - this is very handy.... I want to put a right angle exit in the hydro I'm going to put on my traveller, so need this as well

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

O.k from memory you have to be careful ,,cut the hose of that fitting also,,and ''sweat'' eg ,,solder that fitting on to one of the reusable hydraulic fittings...you will see where to do this once you have the right fittings...So that what you are doing is putting the nut and its ''ferule'' onto a reusable hose fitting,,,BINGO

Also the brass nut that goes on the displacer after you've cut the thread is long,,,about 1inch to inch and a half long...it screws on the dick of the displacer,,and a fitting from the reusable...goes into that brass nut also,,,same way as the ''dick'' did..Don't forget to use the 577 loctite gas thread sealer...its yellow stuff and can hold pressures up to 2,000psi...GOOD STUFF...and will stop any leaks.....


The way i pump the system up is easy,,Get castrol antifreeze which is 97%glycol and mix it 50/50 with water....undo the front displacers in the engine bay..
Drill a hole in a metal tyre valve cap,,and solder it on to the end of a grease gun..

Pump fluid in until you see fluid at the front union,,where you undid the front displacer...this has just removed all the air from the rear displacer and the pipe,,up to the front union..

Next put your green fluid in a clean oil can...hold the front displacer hose vertical and fill the front displacer up..you have to ''tap'' it as your doing this,,it takes a little while but you will eventually fill that front displacer also....Put some of that sealer on the threads and quickly put the front hose on the union in the engine bay....repeat on the other side of the car

What you have done now is removed 99.8% percent of the air out of the system...

With the grease gun of the car pump it to fill the line of the grease gun''no air''..You have to turn the gun in circles to attach the tyre valve onto the car...Pump away until you get the right hight..

What i did next was pump it up and let it settle for a while...got a hose of a push bike pump..with the clip thingy on it,,and let it down,,,mainly to clean the whole system...Then pumped her up again... I must say you do not need to waste money on these tractor tyre valve's ...you do NOT need it at all....Cheers

re the `brass nut'... it's actually called a hex socket, not a nut, if you are going to buy some.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Here's a pic of the other end...cant get one on the displacer side as i can't see it on the car...[img][img]http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/suffolk_photos/100_0379.jpg[/img][/img]