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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 5:12 pm 
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848cc
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so i've put aside 3g to go towards an engine rebuild and performance mods. i will be putting the engine together myself but the machinging will be done by a pro.

what would you guys suggest?

i was thinking a 1330 rebuild of my 1275,
ported and polished head
1.5 roller rockers
twins or a webber
oil cooler
cam regrind

what do you reckon?

the thing is i want to build this towards a supercharger and don't want to do something i'll just have to change later anyway.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 5:25 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
You could save the money and drop the roller rockers...minispares make a nice set of forged 1.5 rockers, or go the doctors mod from jap rockers.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 6:16 pm 
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the King of Bling
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I am doing the same but would dump the oil cooler and the rollerrockers.
I would do the Webber on a GR manifold and his RE13cam (sorry I Am)
Lightened your flywheel and also Ballance the lot Crank/Rods/Flywheel and Backplate dont forget to check that your rods are straight

Thats the block
Gear box
If it ain't rite get it looked at. Its your connection to the motor and also the wheels.

Head well as you said you want to go superscharging...not sure if this would work by you would need another head for that as you would want to build with less compresion and a normaly asperated engine you would want more conpression

Make sure your Brakes and suspention is also perfect

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 6:20 pm 
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848cc
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gafmo wrote:
Make sure your Brakes and suspention is also perfect


8.4" disks and full hi-lo's should have that covered nicely by the end of the month. :D

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 6:21 pm 
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religious status
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Mick wrote:
You could save the money and drop the roller rockers...minispares make a nice set of forged 1.5 rockers, or go the doctors mod from jap rockers.

1.5 rockers will give you more mumbo above 5000rpm, but you will get more midrange oomph without them.

As Mick said I do convert Toyota Corolla rockers to fit a 1275 head, ratio is 1.46:1, cost is $400 assembled and ready to go with HD thick wall rocker shaft.
I've done 9 sets so far, most sold to ausmini members.

I also do modified pressed steel rockers to give 1.31:1 ratio, price is $275 assembled and ready to go with HD thick walled rocker shaft.
I've done 2 sets so far, one for my Moke and one for gerg. :wink:

Remember with roller rockers, you get what you pay for. Good ones cost $$$.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 6:57 pm 
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848cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
1.5 rockers will give you more mumbo above 5000rpm, but you will get more midrange oomph without them.


what kind of differences are we talking here? at the moment my mini runs out of grunt past 4700rpm. i'm after a nice smooth power curve all the way up with most coming on past 2000ish as thats where i spend most of my time.

I was thinking of putting it together myself. I've pulled apart and put together basic engine stuff but not something this size, i'm fairly confident about it but is this a good idea or not? also i want to do some porting myslef as an exersise. i've got a spare head (a bit of surface rust but good to practice on i think. has anyone done this themselves?

at the mo from peoples advice i'm dropping the roller rockers.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:04 am 
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1360cc
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Boost is lazy mans horsepower... you'll have a lot less headaches without the supercharger.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 12:31 pm 
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150hp boosted A-series is going to be a lot more civilized than a 150hp NA A series... :wink: Depends how he sets the charger up too.



But then again, who knows how much power he's after? A good nat-asp A with the right parts will still be fun :)


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 12:38 pm 
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EAB wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
1.5 rockers will give you more mumbo above 5000rpm, but you will get more midrange oomph without them.


what kind of differences are we talking here? at the moment my mini runs out of grunt past 4700rpm. i'm after a nice smooth power curve all the way up with most coming on past 2000ish as thats where i spend most of my time.

I was thinking of putting it together myself. I've pulled apart and put together basic engine stuff but not something this size, i'm fairly confident about it but is this a good idea or not? also i want to do some porting myslef as an exersise. i've got a spare head (a bit of surface rust but good to practice on i think. has anyone done this themselves?

at the mo from peoples advice i'm dropping the roller rockers.

1.5:1 rockers for an A series were originally invented by Speedwell back in the 60s to give some of the benefits of fitting a sports camshaft, without the hassle of changing it.
Whilst on a stocko cam they do help, you will get far better torque and power by changing the cam and sticking to stock rockers.
1.5s are really not needed on a 1275 unless you are looking for power above 6500 rpm.
Putting 1.5s in with (say) a 270° duration cam gives it another kick from 5000 up, but as I said you sacrifice a little down low and in the midrange.

Best cam about if you want good power (and some revvability) is an RE13, IMO.
But of course, I'm biased... :lol:
Having said that, I've owned road Minis with BMC's 731 and 544 grinds, Waggott 20/60, Bert Jones 30/70, Camtech VP3 (619) and 631, Wade/Tighe 104, and Russell Engineering RE13 and RE282(NLA).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 3:04 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Feilding, New Zealand
Go 1360cc
Nice big valve cylinder head with springs to suit 10.5-1 cr and run on BP98 fuel
HIF44 or weber 45 carb on GR Inlet manifold
1.5 rockers i made some toyota ones and they work great
RE13 cam with adjustable cam gears
Fully Balanced
Pulsar dizzy
Liteweight flywheel
Then hope theres enough left over for a gearbox tidy up :?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 7:33 pm 
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1275cc
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If your budget is 3k funds might get tight.
How long till you plan on SC it? and what kind of boost are you planing to run?
If your only after low boost say under 8psi you may get away with a standard comp engine 8 or 9:1 or around their :?
I think the 1360 would be good, and I've heard of low comp heads where the head is ground out instead of low comp pistons. That way you could build a standard n/a engine now and in the future when you SC it just work the head to suit.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 5:47 am 
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1360cc
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hmm with 3k i would

run the supercharger with standard boost 5-6 psi on standard compression so it goes nice off boost and before s/c

and run a standard/ish camshaft for driveability off boost and to run with the s/c

improve the head as much as possible

balance the whole lot, lighten the flywheel

upgrade the clutch

upgrade the radiator before oil cooler.

forget the 1.5 rockers


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 12:23 pm 
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848cc
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the supercharger is a later mod that will (maybe) take place towards teh end of the year. as for power output im after about 100kw, aiming for 85 atw minimum. so probably not gonna need a heap of boost on a 1360 for that.

so from suggestions and what i was going for originally this is roughly what will happen

1360 rebuild
RE13 cam
balanced everything
port and polish existing head (possibly with a big valve kit)
webber carby
lightened flywheel
new valve springs
oil cooler
competition fan (radiator is allready covered)

gearbox is good.

on a side note i'm putting on the flares and wheels in the next two weeks or so will keep everyone posted on how this goes and thanks for all the advice!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 5:21 pm 
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As much as I love webers... I'd ditch it and put a metro turbo HIF44 on instead. It'll give you more torque in NA form and when you ready to supercharge you're already set :)


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 5:24 pm 
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1360cc
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yeah i wouldnt waste money on a weber if you're just going to supercharge later.


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