Hey guys...

Just a quick question. Is this subframe meant to look like this? Or is it bent? I don't have another to compare it to, and I've never really looked at one closely before.

Also, if it is bent, is it repairable?

yeah, it's bent.... unless you're doing a concours restoration, or are going to race it, don't worry about it

if you are going to do either of those things, just go and find another subframe, fixing it would be a ning nong of a job to get it spot on

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Yes it is bent, but I don't think it is bent in a bad way. As long as it hold the engine off the ground and the wheels point the right way thats about all it has to do.

Now about that Uni joint on the end of the driveshaft.... Don't lose it!!!

Yes , just as the others have suggested, it`s bent,,, & the balk head is also bent, (Thats the part of the body that the subframe & the steering rack is bolted too)

I`d suggest you take the subframe out & either straighten it or replace it with a straight one, but while you`re there, make sure you have the body straightened as well

Most minis that have had a decent HIT/SMASH/SMACK/Crash in the front like yours will inherantly have a slight steering issue if its not addressed

The steering racks on minis are not actually in the "Best" or "Optimum" spot/possition anyway, so if they are shoved further back (& more often than not pushed back on one side more than the other) then a slight steering issue will ALLWAYS be present

I don`t know how many times i`ve told panel beaters to fix these sorts of issues & yet still have words/arguments/heavy converstions with them because they continue to try to tell me that a slight bend in the baulk head won`t cause any issue--> (insert sarcasm here)--> yeah right

Just as a miss-matched pair of steering arms will create offset handling from left to right,,, so does a bent baulk head

Just straighten it all up now & be done with it all the right way,,, if you get all lazy now & don`t fix it, then be prepared for the "I told You So" later

It`s not as bad as it may seem like i`m making it out to be,,, but it "IS" an issue that can be corrected now far more easilly than later when you`re trying to work out why it turns left better than it turns right--> if you get my "Drift" (hee hee,,, pun intended)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Thanks for that, guys. I don't think I'll manage councourse, but I want to try for as close as possible, cutting as fewer corners as possible. I'm going to attempt to remove it, after I can find a solution for the four bolts that hold it in at the top - there appears to be pieces of metal that hold the nuts in place... evil spot to get to, although not as hard as the door hinge nuts under the wheel arches.

Any suggestions for the top subframe bolts would be appreciated too.

Those are just lock tabs, knock them back with a chisel then put a socket and extension on.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

All four nuts are now slightly mangled, yet free from the car. Hopefully, barring any further complications, I'll manage to get my subframe out over the weekend.

I like the idea of problems being solved with a hammer and chisel!

Thanks guys!

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1988 Holden Commodore VL Executive
1988 Holden Commodore VL Executive (Parts Car)
1963 Ford Anglia Deluxe