I was just wondering if I should be setting my plug gap any different to the standard 0.025" (is that how it's written..) due to the nature of my set-up.

It's an 1152 with Ben's SC12 kit and also running MSD and electronic ignition. The car does foul plugs at the moment so is getting tuned. I'm putting a new set in tonight and I'd also like a bit of knowledge before I take her there.

Cheers,

Carl.

That's certainly a non-standard setup. If you want to run a high-power ignition system (Crane/MSD) then to get maximum benefit from it, you will need to re-tune your ignition setup.

I would look at your spark plug leads (300-800 ohms per foot are recommended, so you're not losing all that high voltage you are generating), the type of spark plugs (non-resistor, temperature depending on engine, probably a 6, 7 or 8 is a good estimate, spark plug gapping (Crane suggest .045" gap, while MSD recommends a .060" gap (could be s a bit much!) but these are for a naturally aspirated engine. For supercharged engines, you normally DECREASE the gap (between .020" and .040"). You could try increasing the gap about up to .015" and test it out (go up in small increments).

Remember to road test the car at high rpm because this is where the spark plugs will tend to misfire.

Set your advance first, road test, then look at your gapping. Always change one thing at a time and test between. I personally wouldn't go any higher than .035" gap for your application.

Rob

Thanks.
The leads are fine and am running a colder BP7ES plug as recommended by previous tuner. As for gaps etc. i didn't ask and he didn't tell me...

Somebody mentioned to me that I should be running a much larger gap, like 0.080", but I always prefer a second opinion. As you said, I'll try opening it up in increments and see how we go.

I won't be changing too much until I have words with this tuner, but this time i'll be asking what timing, gap etc. i need to be working to!

With my car I run about .025" if you increase it too much it will break down under load at high revs. as stated. Up to about .035" should be OK depends on what coil you have but I would not go higher otherwise pretty sure it will miss at revs underload. BP7ES plugs are the ones to use slightly cooler than standard so it doesn't ping

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4efte powered Clubman
supercharged 998 race car

Cheers Ben. The car actually got dropped off today so I didn't end up changing the plugs yet any way. The coil is a MSD blaster 3 I think, so with the 6AL spark shouldn't be a drama. I was using Bosch plugs but have now swapped to the NGK's as I had previously used these without any dramas.

As a side note, I have a xxx1316 smog head (1275). One mechanic mentioned there may be issues running this on a 998 block but... I asked on here and at the mini workshop where I had the block machined, what needed to be done for the swap, and am sure all things were covered.

If anybody who has done this before can offer any advice or assurance I'd appreciate it.

12G1316 head is physically the same as a 12G940, but with smog ports added- I have built a few smallbores with 940 heads now. I'm currently putting a 1316 head on an 1132 block for my Moke.
You can normally get away with just bolting it on, if valve seats have sunk a bit, the cam is standard lift and you don't over-rev it. But if you do, you will probably bend exhaust valves as they hang over the top of the block.
I always notch the top of the block by 2.5mm, this makes it safer and allows use of decent performance cams, like an RE13 etc.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc.

I did go through this before but I may not have mentioned that I ended up with a 1316, just wanted to be sure. The block is pocketed so no dramas with clearance from the RE13T.