uhm.

power runs in 3rd is standard over here as well.

and straight cut boxes?.. us Dutchies are way too stingy to buy those

hiya`

I have changed the plans a bit and hence this write up.

i build a nippy road engine with a sw5 in it for a pal..

alas the belt drive suffered a failure after 34 km (dud belt it seems..) and that took out the pushrods, all the valves and damaged the cam as well.

as i have since aquired a bimmer 16v head and such..i had a few 5 port spare bits including a RE13 cam. as the rest of the engine was pretty much fit for a wilder cam anyway we put in the RE13 in the rebuild engine.

spec.
1330cc
35/29 stage banana head ( basicly full mods ah la Vizard with some added changes in the bowls and seat area, w. small ports)
RE13 OT ( 104.5 LCA) timed at 105
forged MS rockers (1.58 ratio....)
SS freeflow + RC40
Hif44 with ITG and CST donut rampipe



a lot of the ancillaries where not good i turned out. alternator died. fueling was hell on the dyno. after 4k if went lean and no tweaking of needle or setting of jet would cure it.

still it produced 80 isch fly.wh BHP.

but drove like a pig..yes it would go but getting it to the point where it startded to do anything was hell. motorway driving.. helll. stuttering at 100km/h

so i embarked on a getting the basics right trip..

so far .

alternator died: fitted a brand new one
rebuild the carb and modified some fuel passages a bit the get better fuel flow into the carb.
fixed the dizzy advance ( as a suggestion by KC .. 'should work better than what you have..')/ loads of static advance. no further advance, no vac..

and GR is right you need a good starter.


So far.

now it runs stil utterly crap at idle (1200-1500 is needed to get it running properly at 1000 it is SHAKINGGGGgg).

the fixed dizzy does sort of work and gives loads more pull under 3K. after that line it need more fuel and running with choke out it will go into warp drive at about 4K (the near 1.6 rockers i guess).

added a fuel pressure regulator

will add a electric high capacity pump (a small pierburg gear pump..no ticking noises here)

things to try at this point.

heavier spring. ( a green one is under way)
idea being that it now runs with the piston full up way to early thus causing the metering to go out of the window.



the dizzy..it is a D65 electronic part.

they way i am looking at it now i will get a megajolt setup . that way i can input every curve and do load mapping as well. So far i have heard lots of good results with more cammie cams.

oh and you can crank with 6 deg advance then have 20 degrees if needs be at idle and 14 degrees at 2k.. that is pretty hard with a mechnical dizzy.

well i'll get to the bottom of this at some point.

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no time to finish me bleedin car ..
1982 Blue-White Roof.

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

Hi Sir Yun,
Another thread back from the dead eh...
At last years' dyno run my 1360 got 86.6HP ATW, same engine except cam changed (now RE282) and a 2" exhaust system. Over 11HP gain at the wheels.
Dizzy is still a Nissan Pulsar D4R85 (Hitachi), now with 9° advance plate.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Doc have you still got the RE282 fitted at this date

Sure have, but the car is in drydock at the moment- I've derusted it and am prepping it for paint. Acrylic home job, again... I'm pissed off with dodgy 2 pack jobs and can't afford a pro to do it bare metal.

Dizzy will be changed when it goes back on the road- I have a Pertronix II Flamethrower dizzy and coil coming soon, and I'll get GR to recurve the advance.
I'll then do a before and after dyno run at Mini Classic.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

hiya testing if this works:



first time build.. still pretty.



a go faster exhaust port



a few pics from the rebuild and a dyno plot that is not too pretty



custom bent pushrods




the cam can eat yer rodbolts.. kudos to the heat treatment ..the damage is minimal..but still





note the AF mix going haywire at higher rpm.



the head pretty and new ( before the mishap)




this time with a kent dual chain and a RE13



pretty but high strung..tend to have that with girls as well

_________________
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no time to finish me bleedin car ..
1982 Blue-White Roof.

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

What crank and rods are they- we tend to use S rods and small J cranks mostly over here, I think we have a bit more clearance...?
Was that a Chinese cambelt that let go? I found them too loose. I buy the Kevlar ones from Mini Mania now, nice tight fit and made in Japan by Gates.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

it is an a+ block crank and rods. and yep it was a chinese belt i think. it was pretty tight though. stripdown did not provide any clue why it went..

getting the mini mania item seems like a good idea.

_________________
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no time to finish me bleedin car ..
1982 Blue-White Roof.

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/