thanks got a flare nut spanner
and I soaked them with wd40 for now I'll see what happens tomorrow....

I've got the brake hoses off and the metal line that goes to the passenger side and the one that goes from the splitter near the M/C
There's very little fluid coming out of that splitter even though its wide open from taking the metal line. I tried pumping the brake pedal and no effect on how much fluid is coming out.

here's a pic of it with the pedal depressed



should the fluid be flowing a lot like gushing? or is this normal?

It should gush out in theory, but what happens is if pipe is open and you let the pedal up, it sucks air in. Then next stroke you get air and fluid.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

so I shouldnt worry about taking the splitter off and the other metal line? I'm just worried I might break the rear line as well while taking it off as I found the other ones are very tight rounding the edges of the nut even with my flare nut spanner

I would leave the other steel lines, as you are only taking that front one off because you buggered it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I got my new front brake hoses today and 2 new metal lines made up.
Got it all connected and no fluid leaks
Tried bleeding the system again and I get firm pedal feel but then I get sponginess again after bleeding the drivers side it flows fluid then stops and just drips a little with air.
So still no pedal pressure.
I'll give it a go again tomorrow.
this is frustrating and running out of time.

Rob,,, you will need to make sure that you have all the front brake adjusters wound off,,, back them all off,,, if you`re unsure then pop the drums off & physically look to see if the adjusters are well away from the shoes & definately backed right off & the pistons are pushed right home,,,

then whack the drums back on & then bleed again

then adjust up the brakes,,, that should get you a good pedal

ok?

If not,,, then ring me tomorrow --> OK???

EDIT--> When`s your wedding?????

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

that doesnt sound right razor. you get a firm pedal but then you bleed the driverside and it goes spongy.

its either your letting in air when you bleed and not realise it or you've got new brakes in that need bedding in?

or and this is really going above and beyond... but this happened to a customers car that came in. we spent hours bleeding her from brakes and still couldnt get rid of the spongeness turns out it was the old fluid in the rear that was causing problems so we ended up bleeding all 4 and fix the problem

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

In the first post Rob say's it has discs on the front Matt so it's not that .

Rob , there's got to be something we're all missing here , how long have you had the discs on the front , have they only just been fitted ? Were they rebuilt , is there any fluid seeping where the two parts of the calipers join (even if it just looks a tad damp) on the inside in case there's a small leak there that's spraying on the disc rotor so it isn't all that visible ? What master cylinder do you have , single or split system ?

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Yes I've got disc at the front and its been on the car ever since I got it and havent really use the car that much since so I was just driving the car with spongy brakes (thought it was normal) since I took the car to Matt for wheel alignment and he mentioned the brakes are spongy.
So thought might bleed the system.
No visible leaks, calipers are dry as well as the drums at the back.

I keep an eye on the master cylinder always at least half full
not sure whats single and split types but heres what I have
I've got a tin cylinder with one line thats goes down and splitter? that has a line that goes to the rear and one that goes to the driver's side subframe that goes to the tube nut and splits the line to driver side caliper and passenger side caliper.

I was bleeding the rears and the front starting from the furthest from the M/C
Wedding is on Saturday but leaving brissy fri morning
worst timing to get flu as well

Yeah sorry Rob , i forgot what car we were talking about when i posted above
as long as you fittedf the hoses correctly,,, like make sure you fitted the copper washers to help seal off the hose to the claipers & the copper washers inbetween the brake pressure switch junction etc, so the whole system is sealed, then my guess is maybe you have a master cyl problem.

First up, what i would do now is have a friend sit in the car & opperate the peddle for you,,, loosen the tube nut on the top of that "T" piece (pipe from master cyl) loosen that tube nut,,, then have your friend press the peddle down to the floor, then tighten the tube nut, then lift the peddle back up,,, do this a few times till there is fluid leaking out from the tube nut every time

make sure you keep an eye on the fluid level in the resovoire & top up as you need to

then once you have clean fluid pouting out of that "T" piece junction every pump, then go to the calipers & loosen the bleed nipple , push peddle to the floor while it`s open,,, tighten the nipple & release the peddle back up again,... do that to all 4 wheels (one at a time) --> making sure you keep an eye on the fluid resovoire so it doesn`t run low & suck more air in

once you have done all that then you should have a high, firm, brake peddle

if you don`t , then ring me Rob,,, i don`t want you having a horrible wedding simply becsue of a stoopid brake problem on your mini

ok?>

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

My car didnt have the copper washer in between the brake switch and the copper junction on the subframe. Could that be the source of the problem letting air in?
I got the washer between the brake hose and the caliper.
I'm worried that if I loosen the metal tube line from the master cylinder I might break that line like the other lines I took off as the nut is locked in to the tube it doesnt rotate freely.
I'm getting good pedal pressure when Im bleeding the rear brakes. As soon as I bleed the front ones no pedal pressure at all.

Anyone wanna give me a hand for a carton of beer or something? I dont really have that much $$$ to spend as we've spent a lot on the wedding already.

Rob , just ring me ok>??? it sounds like you`re sucking air into the front via the brake switch junction "maybe"

ring me & i can talk you through it
0407 135 656
Matt

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Note- with some of the later front hoses from UK you need to put 2 copper washers in there or it won't seal.
Somewhere along the line, they stuffed up the thread depth spec.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

if it doesnt seal it will leak... but since theres no leak means he's letting air in somewhere. now razor u shouldnt have to take all the lines off to bleed brakes..its only gonna cause more headaches. do what miniman said and get someone to help pump the pedal cause like i said if your getting a good pedal when you bleed the back but soon as you do the front it goes spongey again means somethings not right at the front.


have your tryed just bleeding the rear only? cause if you are getting a good pedal when your pump the rear then why are you doing the front?

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower