wow, this is a pretty awesome looking build, it'll be great to see it going!



BTW, you've got girly hands Matt

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

either that, or a very well trained girlfriend

("OK honey, now you just hold on to that turbo while I slip around behind you... "

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

yeah well,,, as it happens my girlfriend wasn`t wearing a bra at the time so it was kinda taking me a long while to get the right shot & of course i had some slight dramas with my camera so it took even longer & all the while those wonderful boobies were dangling nicely in my line of sight,,, little did she know tho

Anyways,,, getting back to the point here I`m figuring that the distributor that you`re using with cam & crank angle sensors inside is pretty much the same as this one i prepared earlier-->



Put the balnking cap over the top & job done, easy-peasy

dam hard to get & a bit exy to buy but when you think about all the stuffing around making a pulley up with all the teeth cut & a braket for the sensor etc etc etc,,, this system makes it pretty easy & gives you both cam & crank angle refrence points in one easy hit

cool hey?

anyways, enough banter about that , i`ll get back to lookin at those wonderfull boobies

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Before we get all worked up over 1360 vs 998 might I remind you:



Be interested to see the final outcome of all this work. Noticed Adrian (?) has changed where the injectors ended up, rather than in the plenum, any reasons for that? Also, where does the NOS get injected??

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Carl
Previous Owner & Driver of 1 Morris "It's not a Cooper!!" 850

Spot on again Matt Anyone would think you do this for a living A little bit different but the same thing. Yes it gives cam phasing as well as crank angle whitch means you can run full sequential ignition and injection

Yes the injectors have been moved again, this way it will be a lot easier to tune as we should not need to worry about charge stealing because it will act like a elctronic carby But with a big diference, as I'm yet to see a carby that you can tune from a laptop, correct for air temp, not go out of tune, have proper boost correction for mixtures, run a wideband O2 senser in close-loop to continuously adjust the mixtures need i say anymore

Then you get to all the other things the haltech will control like launch control---hold your foot flat to the floor on the throttle and have it rev limting the revs to what you set say (eg 3500) and as soon as you release the clutch it will launch to the full rev limit

Then having it control the water/methonol that is going on, so it only puts it on when needed. It looks at the air temp, load (how much boost) and RPM then it will spray what and when it's needed If the air temp is not that hot then you dont need it same if you are not running much boost then it's not getting as hot

Close-loop boost control tell the ECU what boost you want at what RPM and in what gear and it will hold it at that. So in first gear you set it to say 7PSI untill 5500RPM then hit 12PSI, to help stop wheel spin and you work out how cool this can realy get

Just to clarify a thing tho i have no doubt that spending this much money on all this stuff you could get way more power from other things to the motor, but its about the drivability i'm doing it for. You will obviously get more power from spot on airfuel ratios and ignition timing but it's all the other things that go with it---eg drivability.

Sorry for the long post but it's so exiting for me atm

Nathan

spaceboy is gay, and boostworx rocks!

Slo998 has beaten me to it.

The SC12 on my Moke is currently sucking through a HIF44... I was planning on taking her off the road this Winter to do something very similar to this:

- Autronic ECU.
- Capri Throttle Body.
- Aquamist Water Injection.

I was going to dump in a Quaife LSD and and RE13T cam while I was at it too. I'm pretty darn excited about finally getting this underway and will look on at your progress with great interest.

this things huge , well done. massive repect.

bill

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http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=71255

I'v been in Perth for the last week working but I'm back now, untill sunday then back for a couple of days So the mini is not much forther then it was but have gots some more new toys and waiting on some



Can I ask why you are thinking of using the Autronic ECU? I did a lot of looking and talking to dealers and found that the haltch was very good for the $$ and did a lot more then most. I was first looking at the E6X but ended up getting the E8 just for the extras that it has

Any throttle body can work I use the one i did for the fact that there are lots at wreckers That it had a stepper motor ideal air control compared to a solonoid and was the same size of the MR2 manifold that has been cut and shut.

The Quaife LSD is in the car ATM and love it to death! you wolud not even know that it is in untill you give it some then it is very controled. I have found that it wants to keep the wheels in the direction they were in, as in they will not straighten at all under power and have to fight a little bit to get it straight Still can spin the wheels in second gear at speed but at least its with both tyers now

The guy I was planning on using to help program the ECU uses Autronic - that is the only reason I was going this route (that; and I read others advice that you should always use what your tuner wants to use - it could cost you more in the long run on the dyno if he is unfamiliar with the ECU).

Agreed on the throttle body.

Nice feedback on the Quaife - this one's a given.

I'll have to look into the Swifttune cam too - seems like most other people are running the RE13T.

I'm finally back from Perth and will be here for a while

So now finally getting back to doing things on the car.



I bought a SW5 cam from England for my new motor when i rebuilt it, and had no idea that it would be running boost. From what i have read and people i'd spoken to, a cam for a turbo to a S/C to a N/A are all different but the super charger and N/A are very simmular. So a cam for a turbo is not going to be as good as a N/A cam in our situation, But this is just what i have found for many reasons but wont go in to them unless you want to hear them

When i was away my new injectors arrived which was a real headache trying to get. They were going to be the RX7 550CC but they needed to be a hose tail injector as there is no room for a fuel rail. Although you can use a normal injector and just put a hose clamp on the end i was not for this as you have >35PSI of petrol and that seemed like it could get bad

So finally found some that were over double the price of the RX7 but were hose tail and only 515CC but will work mint



I've made the fuel rail now just needs to be sent to get the presure regulator boss welded on and mounted back to the manifold and it can be plumbed in





I have finished wiring the colis, cam sensor TPS, idol control, MAP, water temp, air temp and a few little things stated when setting up the ECU and now have sent it back to haltech for repair It was my fault but lots of people have done this now that i have read about it, but that happens Four days and $125 and it will be back in the car with the problem fixed

As soon as i get the ECU back I will load the ignition map that is ready on my laptop and it 'should' start running the SU carby to get the timing right then the injection can go on

Thanx Nathan

What kind of toyota distributor what engine is it from?. If you are happy to share pics on what you have done to the dizzy that would be great. And yep i would go along with you on the haltech ecm they are are a great unit good lay out for fuel/ignition mapping and nice to use

Sorry no updates in a while i have been very busy with work, and getting Glandular Fever So the poor car didn't get a look at for a couple of weeks




As far as i know its from a 3SGE and there is not 'too' much involved. But i dont know as i was lucky enough to get Ben (92) to make it so he is probabley the one to ask

I got my E8 ECU back from haltech, which they fixed under warranty and they were very very good with there after sales service.

Plugged it all in, still using the SU carby but running the coil packs. Then hooked the laptop up, set a few things and what do you know it started Ok not that easy but it wasn't hard, after using the correct timing mark setting the off set angel from TDC with the cam angel sensor. turned the key and chicker broom Could not get the smile off my face!

Now that i have proved that the triggering is working properly i can start to fit all the injection stuff.

Well after a little bit more playing around with the triger setup i was happy that it was ready for the big step

So yesterday was time to make the new fuel lines up, not the most fun but a pipe bender and a little patient's and they were in Changed the fuel tank over to a Rover EFI tank with the new V6 Magna pump. Tested the lines with the filter in to make sure there was no swarf and was all sweet. Plumbed the fuel rail and injectors and the rail leaked from one of the welds It was just bad luck, a pin hole so some alloy Devcon later and we were all good

So today once the Devcon was hard hooked the laptop up and started to play the number game and got it to fire then die So we set up the next fuel map and it kept running Then it was at least an hour to try and get it to idol happy, and still needs some playing but its close. I can definatly now see why and how a good EFI tuner will charge $135 an hour to tune. There is so many things to set up and i will do what i can then they can play

With the wideband o2 sensorr it is around 13.5 - 14.5AFM ATM so thats not to bad and all the spark plugs are identical colour

And yes there will be some more pics and even a video tomorrow