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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 9:24 pm 
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The trouble is... What is the best carby needles for an 1100?

Has the air filter been changed?
Has the dizzy been changed?
What altitude do you drive at?
What fuel do you use?
Just what spec 1100 is it anyway?
All these things will make a difference.

One car may run very well with M needles but another may not. My car run fine on D3 needles with twins on an 1100 but a change of exhaust would have changed everything.

BMC always list 3 standard needles for each car to cover the variation in standard cars.


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 9:27 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
All these things will make a difference.


All true, but usually not to the degree that the car won't start. While an M might be not be the perfect needle for Tiny, it should be close enough to get running even if it doesn't develop full power.

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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 9:31 pm 
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The first 2 stations on most needles are all the same diameter anyways, or pretty bloody close to. So getting it started and just idling shouldnt really be an issue. The number of needles and possible variations of engines makes it pretty difficult to just pick one off the shelf and leave it at that.

It really should see some time on the dyno to fine tune it.

I cant actually find a reference to a N needle to suit a 90 thou jet anyways?

My books say a M is the Standard needle for a 1275 Cooper S running a red springs.

EB is lean and AH2 is rich.

A 3 is a rich needle to suit a 1071cc S.

Have a play on here:
http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

http://www.teglerizer.com/suneedledb/index.html

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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 10:14 pm 
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well i dont know. to begin with he had troubles cause it was 2 different carbies, then he had trouble cause one piston had 2 holes in it were the other didnt, then he changed the carbys and and reckons that one carby wasnt pumping any fuel and was running to lean and when he rang to tell me the cars ready he reckons its all fine now and used standard needles.

now my problem with this is that when i droped the car off they told me that an M needle will be to big so im starting to think they didnt bother trying and just told me that it made the car run rich.

the 1100 motor has a mild cam in it with a straight through 2" exhurst system and extractors. i know what you mean sgc i was suprised that they told me this cause usually the doc is 100% correct usually. i think i might just except it from them take tiny home go buy some type M needles and either bring them on the dyno day to see what happens or fit them somewhere else and see how they go getting it to work.

the only reason im abit worried is because last time they used a standard needle on a HS4 the car ran like crap at start up and when i gave it a boot full and turning corners :roll:. soon as i went back to my old carby set up it was running fine like nothing had happened.

also to note they didnt overhaul the carbies after they just kitted them for me.

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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 10:23 pm 
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tinymorris1969 wrote:
reckons that one carby wasnt pumping any fuel .


Thats normal for an SU.

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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 10:25 pm 
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lol, talking about the doc i havent seen him on here for ages whats happened to him?

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 10:34 pm 
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tinymorris1969 wrote:
lol, talking about the doc i havent seen him on here for ages whats happened to him?


I was going to start a thread about that, I haven't seen him on here for ages! :? What's happened to him? Has he gone on holiday, sick?


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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 12:14 am 
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Im pretty sure he mentioned to me the other week he was going away...for a few weeks I think it was too.....


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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 4:05 pm 
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tinymorris1969 wrote:


the 1100 motor has a mild cam in it with a straight through 2" exhurst system and extractors..

My 1100 way back when, had a mild cam, extractors, 2" exhaust with a hotdog muffler and twin 1.5" SUs with M needles, it was great


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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 7:46 pm 
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hmmm thats another thing its got a hotdog i forgot about that lol. i dont know what it is, im gonna pick up the car tomorrow morning and take it to work and pull apart my old carbie to see what was done to that

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2008 5:38 pm 
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well the carbies are in and its really really good to drive for the short time they worked properly. the car felt really responsive and felt it had more power. the carbies have been fitted with GY needles which are standard for a cooper 998 and runs well. even though it took a while it was worth the wait, and when this little idle problem is sorted out once and for all, ill be over the moon

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 7:29 pm 
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Your problem is that you are using twins , everyboby knows that singles are better but they won't admit it, oh don't stand in front of the fan the brown stuff is about to hit it!!!!

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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 7:39 pm 
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lol everyone has said that but when the carbies did work for that hours worth of driving. the car was completely different. was more responsive and felt quicker and the engine sounds better

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 8:45 pm 
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I found a noticable improvement when I went from a single 1¼" to twin 1¼". The power improved, the economy improved, better to drive, etc.

Then I switched from the twin 1¼" back to the single 1¼" and found that the power improved, the economy improved, better to drive, etc.

The moral of the story is, they always work better when they are freshly tuned. :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 9:03 pm 
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lol well the carby i had on there was a hif and i didnt have a clue how to tune it and neither did a place i set it to. but they also told me they hardly ever need tuning?

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