Does anybody have any plans or hints on a DIY cone compressor.

What I am after is the thread size of the cone as well.

Also - are all cones created equal or are some cones more equal than others?

Thanks.

Some cones don't even have a thread at all.

Other ones are either imperial or metric. Don't know the exact thread type off the top of my head.

so if your cone is threadless how do you chnage the front one???? hmmmm well...

Monrel did a good "How To"
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14894&highlight=cone+compressor+thread

_________________
Too many cars, and too little time.

BFH and a cold chisel and you break the alloy trumpet. The same way as you would remove it if the thread was stuffed, or you simply couldn't be arsed to go and find a cone compressor.

BFH I understand - excellent - time for some hi-los then

It's as good an excuse as any. Damn alloy trumpets are always a bit brittle after so many years, they always break when you accidentally hit them with a hammer repeatedly.

this is good - I ll give this a whirl - I just dont suspensions without springs well

its got to do with whether it is early mini (ie 850) or a late mini (ie leyland mini)
They changed thread sizes.

I think the metric is the latter ones and the imperial was the early ones.

If it does not have a thread - i dont know.
i did read somewhere on here though they are usually compressed enough over the years that you can drob the ball joint (or whatever it is) and you can thenjust drop it out.

Brenton

Late model one for the rear cones don't have thread - just a smooth dish - cost saving measure ? or tight a**

_________________
David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Well its an earlyish big wheeler Moke - with a late clubbie engine and an 850 subframe. The trumpets have Rover stickers on them - so I have no idea about the cones but they could be from anything at any time.

Thread will be 1/2" UNF unless the cones have been changed.
Use H/T threaded rod not the cheapo rolled stuff. There are tons of force on it.
Also provide support out to the bolt holes, there is no strength at all around the centre hole...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hey Doc do you have an "Engineering Drawing" of that you or did you do it be guess and by golly?

_________________
David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Drawing is in my head, I don't do CAD anymore. Forgotten it all..
I made it from scrap I had handy.
There's a brass washer on top, under the nut.

BTW, use grade 8 nuts, and oil the threads good.

<edit> another pic-

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That must be the deluxe model. Mine is a plain piece of 1/2" threaded rod with a groove cut in it to try to clean up the thread in the cone when you screw it in.

I pull off the cover on the subframe tower, thread the rod in (9 turns I think, it says how far in the white Vizard book) and put a couple of pieces of plate I made up on top of the subframe as load-spreaders. Then put on a washer/nut-type thingy (I think it is off the clutch on a mini) and oil it up. Use a grade 8 nut and start compressing. You have to hold the threaded rod with vice grips at the top to stop it turning in the cone though