It's going to be engine out time in the next few days..

What's the best way to make and use an engine lifting bracket and; once out, what's the best way to mount onto an engine stand?

I've go the normal engine stand which has the round tube to which a pipe fits in, then has a square plate with slots for four bolts.

I'm thinking maybe get an alternator bracket that mounts to the block with those two bolts at the front and weld a new bit of pipe the same diameter as the stand internal diameter and use that.

Do people think it would hold the weight of the engine and gearbox complete?

Any other ways, pics etc?

KB

For the engine stand, I use a plate that bolts to the block by the oil filter studs and the rear alternator mounts. I have a tube welded to this that fits my home made stand made from RHS. This will carry a long engine, block, gearbox and head. You should be able to adapt a plate like this to your stand. Steve
edit: spello's fixed!

I made a lifting bracket from a couple of bits of steel angle, and a U bolt welded upside down. It attaches to 2 of the front head studs- #2 & #4, counting from rad end.
Lift point is about 40mm forward of the studs, so the gearbox swings forward a bit to clear the firewall.

re an engine stand, I've never felt the need with a Mini.
I build the short motor and box, turn motor upside down on bench, fit box onto motor upside down. Less chance of gaskets & half moon seal moving, and the box is lighter to lift than the motor..
Then 2 of us tip it upright and I fit the head etc. Attach lifting bracket and lower it to the ground with my cable hoist.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

here's what I use, and I've lifted at least 6 motors with it - it's perfect - gets the angle to et a remote engine out of a roundie perfectly without touching the body anywhere. It uses the 2 rear alternator bracket bolts.

I used 6mm flat plate, with a U bolt that happens to be from a steering rack welded on, the first time I lifted with it, it bent where you can see in the pics, and now it's my 3rd favourite tool in the garage

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Kev, post some pics of yours.....

Tomorra....
It's a bit rough, but works!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok,

So we think the two bolts for the rear alternator bracket are Ok based on what SKSSGN said (ps I was going to say Simon says but thought it didn't sound quite right!). Presumably if you can lift engines out from there, it could support an engine on a stand.

For the lifting bracket a had a remarkably similar idea as Dr Mini, but I was only going to use a single piece of Angle (drilled for the two head studs), and a D shackle with the bolt "ends" cut off welded on the vertical. Doc, you're saying the lift point has to be further forward of the motor? Ps, mines a rod change so I don't have to worry about clearing the remote. The only difference is that I intend to take out the manifold studs and hopefully leave the exhaust in place (wired up to the bulkhead for support). For this time only, just to make more clearance on the exhaust I have removed the front panel and grille (advantage of a clubby!)

The last time I did it I used my brother's bracket (which was a flat strip bent into a u shape with the two holes at the head studs as Doc said). Worked a treat but he gave it away when he sold his last mini.

KB

Kev,
The lift point is forward to swing the diff housing clear. On a rodchange it doesn't need to be far forward, but this bracket does both remote box and rodchange no probs.
The U bolt's lift point is also slightly toward the flywheel side, to balance the extra weight there.

BTW I leave the radiator on the motor, complete. The alternator and dizzy cap, carbs and exhaust I remove first.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i just used a chain with a shackle around the front bolt of the engine steady bracket at the clutch end, with the angled plate and other bolt in place (obviously not with the engine steady clamped in ) the other end of the chain i bolted to the forward most hole on the alternator bracket (not the moving ones). This seemed to give me enough tilt to get engines on 850 gearboxes out no worries.

i also used my brothers engine crane, which is fantastic, except the front legs are splayed at such an angle that they won't fit between the front wheels. i solved this by jacking the car up and putting it on 4 stands. that way the wheels cleared the crane legs, and the car was still level to minimise the tilt angle needed. i thoroughly recommend the crane for installing by yourself, because it is possible to set the bleed rate slow enough that you have two hands free to guide the engine into place. if you are using a chain block, you have to pull the chain with at least one hand!

michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

the bend in my bracket does just what doc describes about moving the lift point forward, and notice where the holes are to make the lift point centre of the motor

I use a hydraulic lift and set the bleed rate to free my hands too - works beautiful

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Front mount - Alternator attachment point.


Rear mount - Clutch Slave cylinder bolt hole


Always use the right tool for the job


Says he who knows nothing - do what I did - use someone who knows what their doing.

What are the other 2?

Pics of mine- note the forward angle the motor sits at..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What a fun job but I prefer to do it than working on the radiator
But Hay I also take of the radiator forst..

I dont use a stand..I work on the floor...Yep block upside down spin the gear box ontop and the flip her...

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

As long as the motor is not tilted to one side, fitting or removing with rad attached is no problem. Beats fitting the bastard later..

<edit> if you look in my pic above, you can see a strategically placed dob of weld inside the U-bolt. This keeps the balance point of hook correct so it lifts straight up.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.