i've just bought a 1275, equipped mini. with a 32/36 DGV Weber and LCB.

the cam is unknown, and currently the car runs quite well in upper revs, but is a pig down low.

i want to get this setup running really well. i've been told to ditch the DGV and get a DCOE, but i figure if a DGV can run a 1.6 litre car why not a 1275?

it currently has a 'turbo' muffler, straight off a VL crappodore, but it will be getting an rc40 and an N12 pulsar dizzy.

any suggestions for jet sizes, or anyone in adelaide who is recommended for this type of carby and minis!

i want to keep this set up as it is a bit different, and well, it's there, i don't really want the expense of changing everything.

cheers.

Bin the weber for the street and put a single 1.75 su or a set of twin su's and it will go really well through the whole rev range and be more ecconomical!! (have been able to do a comparison recently)
Weber is really good for W.O.T. (racing, hillclimbing, etc).

My opinion , others may not agree and thats ok but lets not start a debate about it.
Thanks

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

that's as good a reason as any - similar to "if I wanted to go fast, I wouldn't drive a mini" - it's true, but we still want to drive our minis

have a look on the 'net at other forums, I doubt many people on here would have experience

I did a quick search, and this one looks interesting, could be a lot of good info (it's 10 pages)

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67203230

Vizard's big yellow book has some detail on tuning with 28/36 DCD downdraft carbs, but I didn't google up anything that compared a DCD with a DGV

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

have a read of this one too, should help a lot

http://wiki.datsun1200.com/index.php/Weber_32/36_Carburetor

with this sort of stuff, you'll want to get some background knowledge of them, then ask around who is going to be a good tuner and get them to sort it properly

it looks like 32/36 DGV's are popular with Ford Escorts, so I'd be hunting down a Ford Fours club and finding out who they get to do tuning. There's a FF club in Melbourne who share events with the Vic Mini club

edit: they refer to the A series engine in that article, they mean the Datsun A series, not the BMC A series... though a very similar design, some even say Datsun copied the BMC design - probably a lot of truth in it

the second last paragraph has a link to Weber DGV Tuning - which I think you're going to want to look at!

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

i did receive a couple of spare su's with the car, one i think is 1 1/2" the other i think is a HIF44.

there's no manifold for the HIF44. but i think this will be the go if i change it.

any suggestions?

the 1 1/2" manifold will suit the HIF44, you just need to open up the manifold's intake port... a few minutes with a die grinder will sort it out, but no guarantee it'll be set up properly for your motor either

either of those will be less pain to sort out than the weber, but you sounded pretty keen to keep it 'different'. Read through those links I gave you, and make up your mind...

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Or you could get onto "Russell Engineering and get a "Nice" manifold to suit the HIF44 (1".75) that works quite well

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

The DGV is essentially the a later model DCD except it has fixed chokes at 26mm primary and 27mm secondaries. If you look in Vizard's HTMYM book he lists some jet sizes for a DCD on a worked 1275 with 26mm and 27mm chokes. They would be a good starting point.

If you decide to remove it, I may be interested in buying the carb and manifold. I've had quite a bit of experience with these carbs on Geminis and Toyotas. I'd like to try it on the Moke.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

I knew a guy a few years ago who swore by the Weber down draft carbs. Not many people run them, and this guys car was the one and only time i've seen one on a Mini (ignoring pix from the net).

I suggest sell it to bnicho so he can try it on his Moke.

HS6/HIF44 SU on a nice manifold would be what i'd run.

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I'd play with the weber if I was you. Escorts and 4 cyl cortinas had these carbs, (28/34?) so parts will be pretty cheap and easy to source from the local wreckers.

I've had lots of luck playing with these on geminis and eskys and if you get the jetting right they are very stable & reliable. You shouldn't have a problem sorting your low down power issues - just find someone who knows what they are doing.

Lots of weber specialists out there too, which is good.

The only problem is that you won't have the sexy twin SU look...

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-James.

Toyota 4EFTE Powered Minivan.
102 Kw @ The Front Wheels....Oh What a Feeling!

Well i think i've changed my mind. Got my box of spares today and it seems both spare SU's are 1.75".

One i think is an HS6 (external fuel bowl, some sort of 'thing' coming out of bottom of fuel bowl that extends when butterfly is opened completely) and the other i think is an HIF44 (internal bowl).

the external bowl SU is attached to a manifold and looks like it was most recently on the car. and it has all of the brackets for throttle and choke cables so i think i'll get this one rebuilt and put it on.

can anyone suggest any reason to go for the HIF44 over the external bowl? i want to make sure i'm spending my money on the correct one.

also, any suggestions for a needle/jets as a base set up for a cam i think is stock/very mild.

cheers again.
bnicho, pm me so i've got your details for when i remove the weber, i think i'll let it go, will be a month or so i would imagine.

Personally I think the HIF44 is the better carb. Usually I would recommend it over an HS6 because they were fitted to Minis as standard. HS6s were not and therefore can be difficult to sort out the linkages. Since in this case your HS6 already has the linkages I'd start with that - a basic service kit would only cost you $30 or so.

And make sure that 'thing' on the bottom is a normal thing and not a waxstat thing. But if you were to buy a service kit, they usually come with a new thing anyway.

I had a 2L Escort with a DGV for many years and my experience was;

1) Finding someone who knew how to really tune them was hard.

2) When it did get tuned and was running sweet, it would run like that for no longer than a couple of weeks.

My experience with SUs has been far better.

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One should never skimp on the zip ties.

As Anto has suggested if the HS6 has the waxstat bottom on it best to avoid using it parts are harder to get for them over a normal HS6 (just a larger HS4) and they work quite (ask rehab, he has one on his woosley 1300+) it seems to work ok .
There are no massive differences between the 2 carbs (hif44 & hs6) other than the HIF44 has the fuel bowl is part of the carb body. Both are easy to set up as any other SU carb.
Woodworm what part of the country are you in so someone can give you the info of a relevant carb specialist in your state who can give you the info you are after.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

Speedy, my experience is the exact opposite on a DIY basis.

Once a DGV is jetted properly you only have idle mix and idle speed screws to worry about. They NEVER go out of tune unless they are worn out and have air leaks around the throttle shaft.

On an SU adjusting the mixture affects everything. Choosing the correct needle can be a black art where it takes a lot of experimentation to get the mixture right for the whole rev range.

DGV Weber jets are logical - need to go richer at part throttle, fit a slightly larger main jet. eg: from 130 to 135). Need to go leaner, fit a slightly smaller main jet. Or the reverse with the air correctors if you need to alter the top end. There are almost infinite options and you can just change the part you need knowing it won't affect anything else. Too easy!

Cheers,

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2