Anyone used them? Any advantage over the OE rubber type? Quicker engine changes? More vibrationr?

I notice MS in the UK sell them. Two piece polyureathene - one bit bolts to the subframe, the other pointy bit to the engine which then just drops in and is locked in place with a quick release pin.

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1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

I've not used em but I saw this- http://www.minimania.com/web/threadid/9 ... thread.cfm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I just do the old trick of welding the nuts to the engine mount , makes life easier and quicker , cheap mod works well.
Have never tried the 2 piece mounts but.

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Im here to learn!

Don't get new mounts with captive nuts in-
1. They are way too thick.
2. The threads are cheese, I've stripped one already.

Welding nuts into the std mounts is a good idea, I've been doing it since 1966.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I've been running the mounts with captive nuts built in and had no problem with them. They have lasted three engine changes so far and are much easier to line up

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Mister White Keys
"He who has the most toys, Wins"

1963 Austin Countryman Woody
1964 Morris 850 Van
1967 Austin Countryman
1975 Range Rover 2 Door
2004 Subaru Forester XT
2015 Potts Teardrop Camper
RIP 1990 Citroen BX 16Valve

I had to use a crowbar last time to get ONE of those &*%#( in. Never again....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I've run these in my racer - they're good if you remove your engine on occasion for refreshes / etc.

I secured the mounts to the engine and to the body, then just 'pull the pin' to disconnect the two (first removing the two safety clips). Much quicker and neater than rubber mounts.

Done plenty of races with it. No the pin hasn't snapped off The mounts are made from polyurethane so they don't flex much - the pin is mainly to locate them snuggly.

Didn't notice much extra vibration, my car body is pretty stuff (rollcage / hard suspension). Would probably get away with it in a road car.

I found them easier to fit than standard mounts because they are two-piece you just push weight on the engine to get it to sink further before you slide the pin in, or use a jack to adjust the height of engine/subframe.

Not like the old 'stick the screwdriver into the engine mount to force it to align, then slip the bolt in and tighten.

Incidently, I would stay away from captive nut engine mounts and welded nut engine mounts IMO - too hard to fit.

I've just finished refitting rubber mounts to my racer to compare the difference so i'll let you know... am taking it out this weekend. Will post up a HOW-TO replace engine mounts in a few days as well

Fit either standard rubber mounts or two-piece polys. Oh and i'd go for genuine rubber mounts if you don't have much patience

Thanks guys, some good info here. Actually replacing the standard mounts isn't too bad especially if you cut a small access opening in the inner guard just above the subframe. Then wrap wire around the bolt and feed it down into the hole, once you've lined it up using the mandatory screw driver (or a pin punch).

Be interested to see how the rubber mounts compare with the two piece poly ones. Someone put poly bushes in the engine steady bar recently and had all sorts of nasty vibrations.

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)