hi. my brakes for working fine but the pedal was hard half way down. so i was informed by my mechanic to install a new brake master. i brought a new dual stage MC and i'm have problems bleeding the system. if you pump it like 5 time in a row you get a bit of pressure. if you pump once the pedal hits the floor. is it air in the system. wats the best method on bleeding the system complete from MC to drums. i have bleed my brakes before and havent had a issue just when i installed the new master. thanks heaps

Just keep bleeding, theres air in there somewhere, try cracking all the pipe fittings to see if there fluid at all points, then move down to the wheel cylinders.

Doogie

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I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

If your brakes were working fine, but only bit quite low, I hate to tell you this, but all that needed to be done was adjust your brakes. And possibly renew the pedal clevis pin. I found this out for myself after replacing my wheel cylinders.

hi. thanks. i had stripped the old master and the seals where stuffed. one had a 1mm piece missing. so it must be air in te system. sould i unadjust the front brakes to bleed the system.

This system is the worst to bleed. I had problems before and cured it with the following. Open all bleed nipples while your car is parked on the grass let the fluid run out of them, topping up the master cyl regularly (about every hour) give it a few hours and then lock them up and try for a pedal. When you bleed dont pump-pump-hold-release. If you are running the factory bias (failure valve), and you have bled it like a normal system ie starting at front drivers side valve then the valve will detect a difference in pressure, slam across and now that pipe does not get fluid, and you have a crap pedal because there is air caught in the front left. If you have bled it this way take the valve out and tap it on the ground a few times. There is a spring in there that should allow it to recentre. Now begin the process again. To bleed them via pumping it is best to get someone to help. Open the nipples (both front) Pump once-hold pedal down, close both nipples, release pedal. Repeat about 2463 times. Good luck..... Crap system.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

hi, if i use an oil sucker to suck the brake fluid through the nipples. will that work.

I have one of those vacuum-type pumps and it didn't work very well at all. I bought one of those one-man brake bleeding kits (a bit of tubing with a one-way valve on the end) which worked a treat and cost about 1/10. I'd try that first. Failing that, a Gunson Braker Bleeder which uses air pressure to push fluid through the master cylinder would be my next bet.

Read on a non-mini forum once that when installing a new or overhauled master cylinder to fill with fluid on the bench and 'prime' it first by pumping it several time before you install it in the car - the artical was writen by a brake service person.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!