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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:50 pm 
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Milatsmadmini
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Location: the inner west of sydeney!
As an alternative to the POR-15 line i found some X-troll

http://www.corrosion-tech.com.au/Contact_Us/Ordering/2004_Catalogue_A3.pdf

Seems pretty legit and a great price too.... Any comments?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 5:17 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Out in the shed cleaning up my own mess.
May 2004 price list?
Couldn't find any update on their website.
The PRC 2000 product looks OK, but the Rust Conqueror mentions "environmentally friendly & non-toxic" which equates to "ineffective" in my language, a bit like those green degreasers and hand cleaners that are not worth two knobs of goat-shit IMO.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 5:47 pm 
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Milatsmadmini
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Location: the inner west of sydeney!
AEG163job wrote:
May 2004 price list?
Couldn't find any update on their website.
The PRC 2000 product looks OK, but the Rust Conqueror mentions "environmentally friendly & non-toxic" which equates to "ineffective" in my language, a bit like those green degreasers and hand cleaners that are not worth two knobs of goat-poo IMO.


Got in contact with the Sydney supplier and the prices are still the same :shock: im just after a good sealer for the boot and underneath (maybe in the interior as well...) thats why i found the U-tar stuff (underneath and battery box and maybe as a sound deadener inside?) and the Rust conqueror for in the boot itself... or am i looking at the wrong type of stuff here?

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“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 6:10 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Out in the shed cleaning up my own mess.
I would use the PRC 2000 for the boot, noting that it will treat "salty or acidic environments" - thinking battery region. Untreated acid in the pores of the metal :twisted: That is why I have discovered before that removing rust with hydrochloric acid is not really a good idea. And it says it can then be sealed & coated.

May be better alternative to POR15 which I find expensive and has a short shelf life because of its hygroscopic nature.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 6:14 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
How does the motospray textured underbody sealant compare then?

It's a bit of a moot point actually, I have a can of it already with the matching underbody gun which screws directly onto the lid... :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:43 pm 
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Milatsmadmini
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Location: the inner west of sydeney!
any other ideas on a boot sealent or bitumen paint?

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Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:49 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I have used tar epoxy before, imagine thinned araldite with tar in it. Good stuff... it's used on steel boats and for lining steel tanks.
I bought it at Bias Boating Warehouse.
www.biasboating.com.au

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:49 pm 
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1360cc
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I bought a tin of "spreadable" tar based sealer and waterproofer about 30 years ago - still have it and used it to coat the inside and out of the new battery box I installed - once it skins you can paint over it. This stuff was (is?) used mainly on properties that have gal iron water tanks and roof to stop up leaks. It has fibres through (probably asbestos :roll: ) to help it cover gaps. It used to come in paintable , spreadable and near solid that you heated to apply. Every farm I have ever visited had a big tin - Sue's cousin used it to dab on nicks when shearing sheep .........tar here Jack

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