Hi Guys,

I have a 1997 EFI Rover Mini, the clutch throwout bearing needs to be changed.

I'm wondering if someone can give me the most efficient way to do this? The manual I have is saying to pull the engine out. That isn't a real fun job on an EFI car with fuel injection so I was hoping someone else might have a better way?

Also can someone tell me the best way to adjust the clutch pedal height in this car?

Thanks heaps,

Jacks.

where fo u live, I had mine done in brisbane yesterday, takes about an hour, and no the motor didnt need to come out

If it was an Australian mini I would say it's easily done and is done with the engine in but being so late a Rover I have no idea due to the engine bay being very crowded . Is it a verto clutch or did they go back to the earlier design as well ? Best bet might be to PM Brickworx (or wait for him to find this) or any of the other guy's who regularly deal with Rover mini' of that vintage to know the best way to do it .

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1hr sounds good

Its a late model rover mini and its pretty busy in the engine bay with air-conditioner etc..

I'm in North QLD.

I'd be interested in hearing the Aussie mini easy version???

What if you have a dirty big brake booster in the way??

Jacks1071 - what are the symptoms/reasons you need to change it? Mine has an annoying rattle at idle which disapears once the clutch is depressed and I've been told it could be the thrust washer/bearing etc.

Cheers,
BC.

Then it's just another step Skender , have an assistant standing by to hold brake booster and gently move it out of the way slightly once the mounting bracket is unbolted . A mini is easy compared to most other vehicles where you have to take the gearbox out of the car to get to it , a mini you only have to take a housing off (even though it's a major one with an engine mount and other things in the way ) . I used to be able to do them on the side of the road in under an hour when we went on runs , it happened nearly every run until a couple of local mechanics were "educated' on how to properly adjust mini clutches ....

EDIT , this is a 1998 Rover engine bay , I'd much prefer to change a early mini's throw out bearing (even a GT with booster etc over that side) than the one in this , there's the booster that's incorporated in the master cylinder , the computer and other things (plus I don't think this one has air con so parts of it are crammed in there too ) . No offence Jacks but I'll stick with early engine bays , hopefully one of the rover boy's will be able to help you out with more specific details .


Bugger , photo link not working , photo is on this page ,

http://flickr.com/photos/50706066@N00/2538526535/

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Symptoms are a very high pitched screaching noise in neutral, stops when the clutch is depressed. I also had a scraping wurring noise when changing gears at high rpm but I think that maybe an adjustment issue but possibly all related as its basically all happened on the same day.

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“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Thats the right animal - I have a different air-filter setup but otherwise thats what we're dealing with.

Well normally it's a matter of jacking the front of the mini up (putting it safely on suitable stands , not bricks or leaving it on the jack) , taking off (or at least unbolting) the top engine steadies and any lower engine steadies that may be fitted . unbolt the drivers side engine mount and undo all the bolts around the clutch housing (the earth strap will come off with one of these , don't forget to reattach it when you reassemble it) and disconnect the clutch lever return spring . Jack the clutch end of the engine up slightly (you don't need much extra height , just enough to slip the engine mount out) and lift the clutch housing out . If there is a brake booster , washer bottle or radiator overflow tank on that side then they'll need removing or moving as well . Once the covers off just remove the clutch arm and the nuts on the end of the shaft and push the shaft out (towards the inside) and replace the bearing (you'll need a press to do this) .

In your case though there are a lot of other bits in the road , I've never played with a Rover with the booster incorporated in the master cylinder or all the other stuff to know if you need to remove it all or not .

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its all the same Sports850, you just need to have another elbow fitted to your forearm

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