Well, after nearly a days work, several cuts and nicks to my hands and 2 chipped fingernails, my professionally cleaned radiator with perfectly fitting cap, my checked and serviced alternator, and new indicator stalk are now back in the car. I started her up today and all seems good. It did go past the half way mark on the temp guage, but I was sitting in the garage, so no air flow, and as has been mentioned before probably need to drive it a little being a totally fresh engine. I turned it off before it got any hotter, so I dont know if it would have overheated or not, will find out when I take it driving to get the brakes bled, later this week.

Questions are:
Firstly, Are the hoses marked with pink/magenta dots part of the Emission Control, and if so, seeing as licensing said I can get away with no Emission Control, can I cut them off and join them neatly together to form a small loop, just to look neat? And the bracket underneath them, can I remove that? I thought that could be a good place to mount a radiator overflow tank (when I find one)

Secondly, the hose across the top of the engine (light blue dot) that got very hot. It was sitting down resting on the carburettor manifold, should it be above the accelerator cable to keep it away from the carby manifold? And is the fact that it was very hot tell anything? Or is that normal. Very hot as in barely touch it.

Thirdly, the top radiator hose (yellow dot) is squeezed to fit over the mounting bracket bolt. Could this be causing overheating?

_________________
78 van 1300 cam extractors weber, 12" Superlights Metros Konis HiLos MP3 Amp Sub Alpine speakers and lots of fur
www.crazybitchracing.com

do not remove that bracket,, it is for the engine steady. You should have a steel bar (engine steady) that connects to the engine under the radiator hose. Then it connects to the braket on the firewall, without the steady the engine will move forward and back under power, not good.

_________________
1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

There is a engine steady bar on the left side of the engine, but I dont remember there ever being one on the right...? I should have two?

_________________
78 van 1300 cam extractors weber, 12" Superlights Metros Konis HiLos MP3 Amp Sub Alpine speakers and lots of fur
www.crazybitchracing.com

1275's have the one on the radiator side aswell as the clutch side.

the light blue hose is for a heater, it has coolant running from the back of the head through to ur heater system (if u have one, it doesnt look like it) and then back into the radiator.
ive never seen that type of radiator before, but it looks like that hose plumbs into the top of the radiator rather than the lower radiator hose like mine. if u want extra cooling, put a auxiallary radiator in the line of that hose. It only needs to be a small heater core. Just plumb from the back of the head to the heater core, then the heater core to the radiator. I think Doc recommends a freshair heater. im sure he'll tell you more

Clubbies have two engine steady bars to make up for the lack of the third engine mount (the remote change box)

Your radiator hose is around the wrong way, the thermostat housing is pointing the wrong way for starters, it should face the front and the radiator hose should connect near where the tip of the blue dot hose is...I don't think it would cause any overheating problems though.

I'd be tempted to remove the blue hose altogether..or connect it up to a heater...Doc is the man to talk to on that..

Not sure what the magenta hoses are, where to they go?

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

If you have a rod change gearbox, then you will definitely need the 2nd engine steady, which should connect to a bracket that goes under the thermostat housing. alternatively you can get other steady brackets that go from the bottom of the gearbox to the rear part of the subframe on one side and from the front part of the gearbox on the other side. the reason, as i have read from the doc here, is that with a rod change box, the rocking of the engine has a tendancy to stuff up the gear linkage and make it harder to select gears. it also stuffs up the exhaust.

if you have a magic wand gearbox, then the same applies for the exhaust above, but not the gearchange. keep the second engine steady.

If you have a remote gearchange, with the massive alloy housing that connects to the floor prevents the engine rocking about and stuffing the exhaust. in this case you can ditch the second engine steady bracket on the firewall.

as to the hoses, pink dots is heater hoses. blue dot is a hose connecting the heater outlet and return, which is why it was hot - full of hot water. your pink dot hoses should connect one at each end where the blue dot is currently connected. if you have a heater that is, it would be very embarassing to connect the hoses and pump the water onto the floor of the car. at the head end of the blue dot hose, there should be a tap to control the hot water flow to the heater, with a cable running into the car, but clubbies may be different in this aspect -anyone?

michael

_________________
the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

Well there you go didn't know about the heater...my clubby has the internal heater and i don't have any of those hoses..

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

both of the magenta hoses go into that piece of subframe, and appear to be connected to nothing (move freeely up and down inside the box frame, but have something on the end as they dont come right out.. yet)

So if I remove the blue dot hose and connect the one of the magenta hoses to where the blue dot hose was connected (one magenta dot to clutch end of blue dot hose and the other to the radiator point.. the heaters might work?

The gearbox is the original on the 998cc van. There are 2 thick rods going from the selector box to the gearbox.

_________________
78 van 1300 cam extractors weber, 12" Superlights Metros Konis HiLos MP3 Amp Sub Alpine speakers and lots of fur
www.crazybitchracing.com

ok, your gearbox is a rodchange, so you really want to sort out those extra engine mounts...

Hoses, i don't know much about heaters, but i'm pretty sure you can't just link the hoses up..there will need to be some sort of heater core in between for it to work..

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

can anyone show me a normal clubman engine bay so I can see where your heater hoses go?

I do/did have a working heater, but I cant remember which/where the hoses were.

78 clubman

_________________
78 van 1300 cam extractors weber, 12" Superlights Metros Konis HiLos MP3 Amp Sub Alpine speakers and lots of fur
www.crazybitchracing.com

yep agree with mad - you have a rod change gearbox. you HAVE to get the second bracket for the engine and the steady bar to go in there. someone over there should have one.

you have to get on your back under the dash to see where those hoses are going. it is easier if you have taken the front seat out first, and you are a masochistic contorsionist

michael

_________________
the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

Here's Mine:



What is normal these days? I don't have those heater hoses...

You can see the proper radiator top bracket in that pick, compare it to yours..and where the sop radiator hose goes. Don't know where you got your radiator from..

Check out here for a bigger pic:
http://photobucket.com/albums/v654/jcorin/

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Yep the Pink dots are heater hose Jill....one is in, one is out and the Blue dot should be connected to the out hose...Pats dad had the same question...
Do you have a heater..if you have hoses you should have one..Check first you can put an additional rad as mention above on the out hose from the heater (if you have one), or pull the pipes out of where they are (if you don't have one) and connect a rad from a heater to it.

Re the Stabilizer...if you have a rod Change you need that you need that stabizer coneected..if its a Remote..you dont , Remote are Better

Radiator...it does look funny to me also but I have not had a Clubby for some time...my normal idea is that the Rad is round the wrong way ..Sratching of the head now.. Ow I just sratched myself..but if thats the way it was..Coolies

Question...your hose that come from the bottom of the Rad to the block does it have a by past hose

Heater connection - Hose comming from the the Bottom rad hose goes to the Heater Tap


Heater Hose - the one between the the Piper and Cross airfilter (engine breather is from the Bottom Rad hose with a by past and goes to the tap0 and the Rad Cap

Bottom Heater hose by past to heater

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Jill, you have the very late Clubbie radiator- top pipe connection was relocated so the air pump could mount in front. The blue dot hose connection on top of the rad is the return water from heater- on earlier Minis this went to the bottom hose.
The other heater hose comes off the back of head as usual.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

kev can you check the pic's and advise if mine is wrong and I'm adviseing wrong The blue dot hose connection on top of the rad is the return water from heater- on earlier Minis this went to the bottom hose

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It