I pulled my engine out this arvo so I can pretty it up a bit.
(1) I plan to paint it and I want to know what's the best way to prep the engine? I'll be hitting it with some degrease and a gurney but is their anything else I should do, do the alloy sections need different treatment to the block?

(2) Also I'm pretty sure I have a timing chain leak, would I be better off replacing the standard gasket or should I go with some gasket goo/silicon sealer?

(3) I'm also going to paint my disc calipers. Should I worry about getting the paint on the pistons or am I safe to just pull the pads out and paint the entire thing?

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Re: Question 2 - I'd just change the gasket while you have good access to it .... and the seal while your at it! This could be the cause of your leak too??

Not sure about the other things.

Cheers,
BC.

(1) Just degrease, gurney, prime and paint is good enough for an engine IMHO. Just make sure you use some high temp stuff for engines otherwise it might blister. TBH I would leave the alloy gearbox as alloy and not paint it. It's up to you but no doubt if you do the same as for the block it should turn out half decent.

(2) Clean both mating surfaces to get them perfect. Use a smooth file to make sure each surface is flat (just used to clean off the yuckky bits). Use a new gasket and some permatex no 3 on the gasket. (Metho gets permatex off). I did this recently - I spent 2 hours prepping the mating surfaces and have been rewarded with no leaks. Make sure the timing chain cover is flat! Do not ditch the gasket and just use goo.

A new gasket will set you back about $3.75 and a bottle of permatex no 3 about $6.50. Also get your self some locktite 262 Stud lock to put on the crank pulley bolt - that way you don't need a lock washer - torque it up to 70ft/lb's. Make sure that you slide the crank pully on BEFORE you do up any of the timing cover bolts. It would also be worth replacing the cover seal that the pully fits through, you don't want to have to pull it all apart again.

Dave (sitnlo62) told me what I have just posted there and he was totally right. I followed his instructions and as I said, have no oil leak from the timing cover anymore.

(3) I would only paint the outside of the caliper. Mask off the innards (especially the pistons). You can't be too careful when it comes to brakes IMHO. It probably won't make a difference but if it does, you are putting your life and others at risk

_________________
"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

As BC has said replace the seal and gasket. Also check the timing chain while you have it all apart. As it is an easy job on the bench and a pain in the ass in the car. Use some silicone sealer on the new gasket when you replace it.



Try not to paint the seals and pistons. Mask it up as best you can or use some old pads to cover the piston and seals while you paint them.

Matt

_________________

I pulled my engine out this arvo so I can pretty it up a bit.
(1) I plan to paint it and I want to know what's the best way to prep the engine? I'll be hitting it with some degrease and a gurney but is their anything else I should do, do the alloy sections need different treatment to the block? get a wire brush and give it a good going over. primmer and good quility Engine Paint with the gurney becarefull not to get any water into any orrifice.

(2) Also I'm pretty sure I have a timing chain leak, would I be better off replacing the standard gasket or should I go with some gasket goo/silicon sealer? Get a New Gasket and Gasket Cement I use Loctite product

(3) I'm also going to paint my disc calipers. Should I worry about getting the paint on the pistons or am I safe to just pull the pads out and paint the entire thing? take the Pads out and remore the Caliper from the assembly once again give it a good going over with the wire bush good quility primmer and Brake Calliper Paint getting paint on the pistons is all cool

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

It's been a bit wet up here so I haven't gotten too much done, what I have done is strip all the aculxaries off the engine, gurnied, degrease and gurnied again and it's come up rather nice.

I will be degreasing and gurning it again before I tape off the gear box and give the block and the flywheel cover a coat of paint, almost seems a shame to paint it considering how clean it is now .
This is how it looked before I took it out, (I've also had the radiator flushed and repainted so that will look a lot better aswell, the rad was 15% blocked).
.

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I did 2 engines with Cooper S metallic green paint, from Mini Car Clinic.
Both were degreased then wiped with grease & wax remover, and dried.

1st one I etch primed then sprayed the colour.
2nd one I brushed the paint straight on, no primer.

The 1st one is blistering , IMO brushing gives better adhesion.
my (now devalued) 2c...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

with your timing chain cover... my dad had a bad oil leak from his timing chain cover and could not fix it new gasket gasket goo.......and still leaked so when he had the engine out sad to say he found that the thread was stripped adn this was the cause of his leak (two holes were stripped) so my dad got the old trusty drill and 2 teck screws and drilled away...sad and bodge i know but hey he fixed the leak and i think he is proud of it... just thought id share

Your intake/exhaust manifold could do with a bit of porting....looks VERY restrictive