Im running NGK BPR6ES spark plug, ill swap them with BP6ES. The timing was done about a month or 2 ago just after the engine rebuild, and i cant adjust it because i dont have a timing light.

This is the throttle shaft thingy. As you can see the idle screw isnt even touching the shaft and the idle is still high.

I replaced the whole lot.

For a start I wouldn't be running plugs with a resistor in them. Change them to BP5ES or BP6ES. I'm more of a fan of BP5ES personally.

Do you have a 12V test light or a multimeter? You may as well set the timing statically if you don't have a timing light. I have a timing light but would prefer to set on the move, then statically, then with a timing light. I assume you know how to time an engine statically?

<edit> It looks to me like the throttle is stopping on the bent over plate just about where the cable goes in. This could be stopping it from fully returning

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

Ill change the plugs to BP5ES, and i have no idea how to set the timing

Theres nothing stopping the plate from going up higher. Could it be the butterfly or the shaft inside the carby?

OK, it is really simple and is better than nothing at all.

To adjust your timing:

You will need a 7/16 O/E Spanner
and a mirror - preferably one on a flexible handle etc.
Spark plug socket
ratchet handle for the spark plug socket
O/E spanner for the little cover on the flywheel so that you can see the timing marks (can't remember the size - maybe 1/2"???).

1) Do this on some nice flat ground.

2) Take the plug leads off the plugs. (mark them if you have to - I know which order mine come out of the cap so I don't have to mark mine).

3) use the spark plug socket to take out all 4 spark plugs

4) put the car in 4th gear without the hand brake on.

5) push or pull the car in one direction while looking into the inspection cover in the flywheel housing with the aid of the mirror after you have taken the inspection cover off the flywheel housing.

6) line up the little pointer in the flywheel cover with the 1/4 mark on the flywheel.

7) get your 12V test light or multimeter and hook it to a good earth (I use the engine earth strap).

8 ) get in the car and put it on ign or acc etc - just get some power to the car but DON'T bother cranking it over - it won't start (remember we took the plugs out).

9) touch the 12V test light to the distributor side of the coil - it should be alight (or reading somewhere around 12V for a multimeter).

10) Push the car backwards (slowly) and watch for the test light to go off (make sure the car won't keep rolling when you stop pushing.

11) use the mirror to have a look in the inspection hole, where the pointer in the cover points to is how many °BTDC the spark fires. Use your manual to check the correct setting. Figure on somewhere between 3° - 7°.

12) If it's not set to where it should be the undo the clamp (don't take the nut all the way off, just so that it's loose) on the distributor with the 7/16th O/E spanner you got out earlier and then twist the dizzy body with your hand. If you want to advance the ignition timing - twist the dizzy CLOCKWISE (i.e. the number shown on the flywheel will get bigger next time you push the car backwards). If you want the number on the flywheel to get smaller (i.e. retard the ignition timing then turn the dizzy body ANTI-CLOCKWISE).

The dizzy only need a little tiny turn - not a really big one.

13) Don't touch the dizzy body now and don't do up the clamp bolt yet.

14) Pull the car forward again so that the test light comes on or your multimeter reads 12V.

15) Repeat from step 10 and see what you get this time. Repeat as many times as nessasary to get the corrent number happening.

16) Once you are happy with the timing I do up the nut on the clamp and then re-test the timing just to make sure I didn't bump the dizzy when doing the nut back up.

17) Turn the key to fully off (so there isn't power to the coil anymore).

18 ) Put the plugs back in and put the leads on in the correct order.

19) Do the inspection cover back up (I loosen one side and take the bolt out of the other, it will swing down for you and you won't have to take the whole thing off).

20) Remove your earth clamp that is currently attaching the test light to the earth strap on the vehicle.

21) Kick it in the guts to make sure you didn't stuff it up too bad

That should help you out I don't think I've forgotten anything but that is how I statically time my car.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

has the carby had a new butterfly disc fitted recently?

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Was the carb done at the same time as the engine?? if so what was done?
What oil/fluid is in the dash pot? Could the throttle linkage be catching on the thread of the manifold mounting screw or maybe the split pin from the cable "eye" mount be catching on the manifold or something stopping it from returning? check with the engine off for it catching/binding somewhere.

Good luck

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

try running the engine and physically pulling and pushing on ur carbie shouldnt make a different if everything is ok but if the revs change could have an issue and if ur running a vac advance try blanking it at the carbie thats all i got that hasnt been said

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Enjoy Chris

Yes. If the throttle shaft is badly worn, or the butterfly itself is then with enough sideways movement the butterfy could catch on the carb body and keep from closing all the way.

I'd be suggesting though that you've got a vacuum leak, most likely at the butterfly shaft. Until recently my van had exactly the same problem, one new shaft and butterfly and the idle is down from about 1400rpm to 650rpm if I wanted (although I have it set to around 800).

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Wow thanks for that....How-To

Mite give it a go on the weekend if i have time

I got the carbie from mini king not long ago, i havent touched it but i dont think it was running like this before. It has ATF in the dash pot. I dont think the actual linkage is touching anything, its clear of any screws. Perhaps the shaft is worn or the butterfly.

Ill try getting it to a mechanic to check the carby out.

Cheers

Just had a thought mate, before you put the new plugs in gap them to 0.025" because the standard gap will be bigger than that (gapped for EFI cars).

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

Will do cheers

Give Me A call tomorrow, If I have sold you something faulty, I am happy to fix it or refund You
John

Thanks john, ill get a tune up first and see house i go.

Thanks again

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