putting back together my metro brakes and i've stripped a thread going into the caliper.

i've stripped the soft alloy of the caliper. and of course it's on the main fluid feed into the caliper.

anyone know of a version of loctite that might act as a sealant as well as loctite? remembering it's brake fluid so it gets pretty warm...

or will the place that rebuiilt the calipers be able to sleeve this section and re tap the thread??

any suggestions?

cheers.

There's about 3000 PSI behind any thread to do with the brakes on your car, and if it was a mounting bolt it would be equally important. The only (only!) option you have short of replacing the caliper is to have it fitted with a thread replacement recoil. You need to define the thread type (1/4 UNF??? BSPF??) and have it fitted by a machine shop or mechanic.

If it has been simply cross threaded and you haven't pulled out too much of the thread, you may be able to simply have the thread straightened out and can carry on as usual. So there may be no cause for any further work.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Yep , as Mick said don't risk anything other than a thread replacement , if the loctite etc fails you have a good chance of losing brakes , look at the brake failure in the UK thread from a week or so ago ...

_________________

There is a repair adapter made for this, it was talked about on here years ago for fixing S calipers.
Basically I think you tap the caliper out bigger and then screw this part in, it has a new seat for the bleed nipple.
Matt TheMiniMan might recall better than me.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeah i don't want to risk anything. brakes are one of my 'things' hence why i'm completely rebuilding the system.

another trip to the brake shop it seems... i'm sure they'll be able to 're-coil' the thread.

cheers.

Often it is the lead in to the thread that has simply been damaged slightly with either a first thread on the nipple or the caliper crossed slightly. This prevents the thread from starting. You have to work pretty hard to ruin the caliper thread actually, it's usually the nipple which takes the punishment.
Is there really that much thread material missing in the threaded hole?

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

i'm going to try it again with another pipe and see what happens.

while i'm here, any suggestions for bleeding a system that's been open for a few weeks?

do i open all nipples and try and pump fluid through to them or do i start with just one corner open and pump there etc etc,

thanks guys.

One corner at a time, start from the furthest from the master cylinder

Daniel

_________________
Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol