H Guys,
Just wondering if anyone could help. My brake lights work, but need quite alot of pressure to come on. I suspect its the switch (not sure what its called sorry) but was wondering if the brakes needed to be bled to replace the switch? I have 12'' wheels with 8.4'' discs. I did get a brake overhaul when the disc's were put on in febuary. But didnt notice it untill recently.
Cheers guys
Thanks
Ryan

If it has the hydraulic light switch it needs replacing. They start to die after 30 years or so!
When you change the switch you will need to bleed the brakes again. (there is a trick to avoid bleeding but it needs two people and is a bit dodgy!)

If I was in thame Situation would convert over to a Clubby Switch
Easy Convertion but sorry I don't have the Info..Some one will add it

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Most Clubbies use the same hydraulic switch. It was only the last two years that had the switch on the pedal box.

Yep the Peddle Box Conversion

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

The mechanical ones at least keep working, which is more than the replacement hydraulic ones do now (I had 2 go bad quickly.)

Another advantage of using mechanical is you can set the stoplights to come on when you go for the pedal, not just when the anchors are well and truly already flung out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I don't like the idea of people fitting a mechanical switch and leaving the faulty hydraulic switch in the system.
If you are going to upgrade it would be safer to remove the old switch and plug up the hole.

I know that there were some faulty switches around a few years ago. I had the same problem with oil light switches.
I did fit a new switch to my brakes about 6 years ago and it is still working fine.

You don't strictly need to bleed the brakes when you replace the hydraulic switch. Because the brake master cylinder is higher than the switch, you're unlikely to get air into the system because it will naturally gravity bleed -- fluid will come out, preventing air from getting in.

I changed my switch this way recently, no bleeding required.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

The Haynes Manual says you don't need to bleed. Just replace the lid on the bean can with glad wrap whilst you are working.

Chapter 12. http://www.malaysiaminilover.com/haynes ... p-manual-2

the mechanical clubbie switch was only on those cars as a "brake fail" warning light wasn't it?

IE if the mechanical swwitch was on, but the hydraulic one was off, the "brake fail" light would come on

wyan, not sure what the "brake overhaul" included, but if you haven't flushed the system in a few years, or don't know when it was last done, you might find that you just need to flush the fluid out of your brake system. There might be a bit of crud sitting just underneath the inlet to the switch that is blocking it a bit, or something else wierd happening. I'd suggest you replace the switch, AND flush the entire system front to back with new fluid - I wash it through with metho, and have seen some horrid looking gunk come out of cars

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Ummm, No! The mechanical switch is just a brake light switch. There is no hydraulic switch. But there is also a brake failure switch that works on the dual circuit valve.

Hey,
With the overhaul, it was when I got the discs on up front with new hoses shoes etc, and I would presume they would have put all new fluid in as they had to do something to the drums on the rear to, I just cant remember exactly what he said to me right at this moment. I think im going to bleed them and put on a new hydraulic switch this weekend as I want her done properly. Thanks heaps for the help guys, always a great help. I havent been on her for a few months as I was overseas, but I have to go through my photos and find my mini sightings all over the world ASAP.
Cheers and thanks again,
Ryan

The late clubby stoplight switch is a nylon body N/C switch. It mounts against the brake pedal in a little bracket. You can adjust position. Easy to make a bracket up, I just used a bit of slotted angle.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I replaced mine three or so months ago and as Dr Mini warned me, yes the new one failed and I fitted another new one this week. I'm trying to keep things fairly standard but it doesn't make it easy when they produce poor quality parts. I will see how this one goes but at $16- a go it makes you wonder. No need to bleed, just need two spanners to undo and replace.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

Doc and I replaced mine. I had one that was faulty... put in a brand new one and within a week it was pretty shitty (ie/ I had to slam the pedal to make the brake light work) may have had to do with my brake setup but still, seeing a truck or something behind you and hoping they stop isnt fun)

The mechanical clubby switch was installed and now even when you feather the brake pedal the stop lights come on - MUCH better, safer and effective.

Pete

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